Day 2 (April 21) Walk In The Woods – 14 Miles

Dawn broke with the temperature at 30 degrees plus high winds. Roncesvalles was quiet even at 9 AM. It was Sunday and probably most the pilgrims were on the road. My hotel was just to the right (the small sliver of a wall) in the photo. Such peace on the Camino.

After passing the Camino stating the distance to Santiago (755 kms for thru walkers), out came my puffy jacket plus gloves. But they were soon shed because the pathway entered into a thick forest that proved to be an excellent windbreak.

Although some of the walk went through exposed areas like grazing land or meadows, most of today cut through different forests or stands of trees including a very rocky section near the town of Zubiri similar to the Appalachian Trail as it makes it way on the north side of the Lehigh Valley.

We passed several dairy farms and in the town of Espinal, a community ja’lai court with a spirited doubles game in progress. Given the size of the court and three walls, it is not surprising that the game didn’t catch on in the US like pickleball. I wonder if pronouncing ja’lai had something to do with it as well.

We eventually reached Zubiri and our hotel Txantxotena. I have provided some photos of the hotel so that you can calibrate what a standard hotel room en suite (bathroom in room) may be like if you book a trip with my provider, Camino Ways. I have ranked my first three hotels that I have occupied as: 1, very good to excellent (Txantxotena); 2, good (Las Posadas, Roncesvalles); and 3, adequate (Les Ramparts, St Jean). All were clean with good beds. The difference is the general ambiance of the hotel and room, room size, and internet speed. The Txantxotena was off the charts with internet download and upload speeds. Not even 5 star hotels can beat its speed.

After settling in, Raquel and Josh, a couple from Colorado, and I were off to dinner. When we entered the restaurant, there sat Raye, Holt, and Daniel. I wrote about the first two in yesterday’s blog. Daniel is from Eisenach, Germany who is between jobs. At this point in the Camino, pilgrims are settling into their paces thus creating the opportunity for people to run into one another on the trail or in restaurants/bars even though they may be staying in different accommodations and starting each day at different times.

Racquel, Josh, and I were seated and ordered our dinner. It turned out that Racquel and I love beans. Here is photo of the last spoonful of my beans that we devoured with relish (not literally). We were served ourselves from a tureen. We each indulged on about three bowls. Need that protein and fiber.

Josh and I shared a bottle of red wine that came with a bottle of zero calorie slightly sweetened soda. I was reminded of the 2021 Camino when Laird Evans and I were served similar two bottles. Back then, we asked our waiter, why two bottles after we had consumed a somewhat harsh wine. He said that we were supposed to mix the two! Luckily, our red wine yesterday was good. You have been forewarned.

So ends another day – not overly exciting but with its own beauty of hearing the wind rustle leaves, birds chirping, water skimming over stones in a stream, and cows mooing. Most importantly, meeting new people and hearing their stories. Tomorrow, leaving the Pyrenees with my return to Pamplona. But not before breakfast.

Answer (left to right): Raye, Holt, Daniel