Day 4 — An Easy Sunday? (13 miles) — 13 September

Our guide stated 20km Les Faux to Amont-Aubrac. We figured an easy day — 12 miles. It turned out more difficult because of the heat — 80 degrees at the high with very little shade. Monique even took out her umbrella midway to shield her from the sun. My skin took a beating even with a healthy smear of sunscreen.

Much of the hike was on paved or fine gravel roads. Once in a while, we encountered some very uneven and rocky terrain. Should have been fairly easy except for the heat.

We mostly saw fields that had been cut for cow feed or had been left fallow. You can tell in the photo below that the cows were impressed with the quality of the straw given to them. Remember Elsie, the contented cow, of Borden milk fame. I don’t think that any of these cows would even make the preliminary audition for a new Elsie given their looks.

We reached Aumont-Aubrec at 4. Before checking in, we stopped for some refreshments sitting outside at a local bar. The wind had kicked up and clouds were magnificent. A moment to savor.

At 7, time for dinner at our Hotel Prunieres, a sixth generation hotel and restaurant. Jeff and Nick, the English fellows at our dinner table last night, joined us. Their stories and photos will come later because they will walk to St Jean Pied-Du-Port as well and the booked with Camino Ways, my company.

The dinner was excellent. I chose the local sausage rather than the tripe. The showstopper was the aligot mashed potatoes which was mixed with creamy tome cheese. The potatoes’ texture was like thick pancake batter. We all gave it the thumbs up.

I also had another tough choice to make: myrtille (blueberry) tart or local cheeses plus Roquefort. I chose fromage. We have the Historic Bethlehem Blueberry festival annually so I can get my blueberry fix. But real French cheese. I’ll need to cut out cheeses when I get home. For the moment, one happy boy.

A potential 20 miler tomorrow. Time for bed.

Day 3 – In and Out (18 Miles) 12 September

We started out at 8 AM, still dark and cold (48 F) with a statue pointing the way south. Although the ascents were mostly gentle, we still recorded almost 2,000 feet of elevation gain.

What struck us was the topography of area through which the trail went. We were in open fields for a mile or two then in dense forest. We were in direct sunlight for 30 minutes and then in shade. Thank goodness for the shade. We certainly felt the sun’s power as the morning approached noon.

Monique commented that it was quite warm for mid-September. Coupled with low rainfall, the fields had browned. I included an image of a house in the middle of a dry field – a perfect setting for filming the new Little House On The Prairie.

Walk In The Woods (More Importantly, Shade)

In between, we took two breaks. The first included coffee for Monique and of course beer for me. We shared a pear tart. The cost will break your heart – 5.50 € or $6.30. At the other establishment, a coffee and beer where it sold local products such as shiitake chips and crisps (probably appealing to both an American and UK customers). Check out the flavors: Original, Truffle, Garlic, and Wasabi. Monique told me that wasabi is gaining a large loyal following in Europe. Shiitake. I should have checked the nutritional table. The healthy alternative to my favorite potato chip. I say potato and you say shiitake. Does have quite the same flow.

We eventually reached our hotel at 5:30. We were on the road for 9.5 hours. I thought that I would notched a 20 miler. Alas. But several future several stages have the potential of being 20 milers.

Soon, it was dinner. We shared a table of eight — four French, two English (who will be going the distance to St Jean Pied du Port using Camino Ways, my travel planner for this trip), one Swiss (Monique), and one American (moi). After a quick discussion of American politics, we moved to a wide range of topics.

Dinner was served family style with an opening salad, roasted chicken thigh and drumstick with potatoes and beans that ended with a thick chocolate pudding. Our wines were from the region – Puy de Dome. Very satisfying. I was not thinking clearly. I did not take a photo of our table. C’est dommage.

Another quiet night in the French countryside.

Day 2 – Down the Red Brick Road (13 Miles) 11 September

Shortly after leaving St Privat d’Allier, we descended down a path covered with broken pieces of terracotta roof tiles. We surmised that they were placed there to create more traction for hikers. The rocks underneath were probably very slippery especially during rains. A first for both of us.

Our first stop was the Rochegude Chapel and Tower. A kindly Canadian took our photo before the chapel in the distance which commanded a wide view of valleys of the D’Allier River.

Rounding the chapel, we began our 1000 foot descent to the floor of the valley where we crossed the D’Allier River by the Pont Eiffel, yes, the same guy of tower fame.

After a refreshment break, we started our 1500 foot ascent towards Saugues. We had a wonderful panorama of the river and its town, Monistrol-d’Allier. Nearing the top, we passed the Chapelle de la Madeleine that was built into the face of the mountain.

After six miles, we encountered wooden sculptures on the outskirts of Saugues, our end point. Notice the scallop shell hanging from the tallest candle. The descent was steep but we knew that our hotel was about a mile away.

Dinner was early — 6:30. Our waitress told us that people in this town are early to bed, early to rise. The town was eerily quiet and dark when we made our way back to the hotel.

But a short commentary about dinner which began with a glass of kir. We both ordered the lentil salad — excellent. I had a local fresh water fish while Monique asked for an omelette. I ended with three local cheeses from a semi-hard like Comte to a very subtle blue. In between was a creamy cheese with a soft rind with ash — not Morbier but a distant cousin.

A short walk back to hotel for a well deserved sleep. I took an image of the Tour des Anglais built in the 13th Century during the Hundred Years War that loomed in front of my window. All was peaceful tonight.

Day 1 — Feel the Vibes on GR-65 (15 Miles) 10 September

Breakfast at 7, on the road by 8 with pilgrims on our heels.

The cathedral tower was a dark silhouette at sunrise. Soon after breakfast, we were leaning into the hill on the Rue des Capucins (the Camino route) that passed next to our hotel. Our fellow pilgrims were a serious lot. For some, a new experience of walking a quarter mile up a steep incline. For veterans, just the first of many hills to come.

After the climb, we settled in for a long walk across the plateau. The temperature was mid-50s, moderate winds, and puffy clouds moving quickly across the sky. The terrain was mostly open with occasional moments in the trees that lined the trail. We also saw a most unusual combination of a tv antenna affixed to a cross. Was it a new way of the communicating with the Almighty or a pragmatic way getting a better signal to watch futbol?

Eventually, we descended to our destination St Privat d’Allier, a small village perched on the side of a mountain. We were early so I enjoyed a biere pression, La Vertueuse, the virtuous woman. An instance of French tongue in cheek?

Before dinner, we took a stroll to the other side of the gorge where a church was constructed in the 12th Century stood. At the threshold, I spied an interesting stained glass cross behind the altar that beckoned me in. Who knew that some of the church’s stained glass windows were Mondrian like. The Camino continues to surprise me with its hidden beauty.

No report of dinner tonight. It was quite ordinary.

Camino Podiensis (Le Puy-en-Velay to St Jean Pied-du-Port) Prologue (9 September)

My five previous Camino walks have been exclusively in Spain except for the one that started at St Jean Pied-du-Port, the gateway over the Pyrenees to Pamplona and onto Burgos. It is not surprising that everyone associates the Camino with Spain.

But pilgrims started from villages and cities throughout Europe on their Caminos that eventually crossed into Spain along some well traveled routes. The Caminos Frances is the best known with the starting point at St Jean Pied-du-Port. This village will now be the end point of this Camino – the well marked Camino Podiensis (CP), the GR65 — that traverses the Massif Central (an area of extinct volcanoes) through the Dordogne (the land that produces Roquefort cheese and Armagnac) and ends in the French Basque area at the foothills of the Pyrenees. The guidebooks say 450 miles. I have 32 days based upon the dwellings that have been reserved.

The first task is getting to the start point — Le Puy. Perhaps you have eaten its famous green lentils. All went smoothly from Sharon driving me to the Newark Airport bus and the Air Canada flights to Montreal and Lyon. I chose these flights because they were the least expensive when I booked in early March. Something called the Iran war sent prices quickly up.

A serendipitous benefit happened by arriving in Lyon. The Schengen zone has started to phase in a new scanner/photo turnstile entry system while eliminating the old fashioned face to face system with immigration officers stamping passports with entry visas. Alas, no more bragging rights on how many stamps you have in a passport — at least, Schengen zone ones.

Reports abounded about long waits of up to two hours especially at major hub airports like Frankfurt, Paris, and Amsterdam. But today, I walked without stopping to a passport checkpoint and had my passport stamped — perhaps my last of the Schengen zone.

Instead of taking hours to get to Lyon central station, I was ahead by four hours. So, here I am starting to write this prologue and people watching before boarding my train to Le Puy where my friend, Monique Karrer, will meet me.

I first met Monique on my 88 Temple walk in Japan. We later met in Orvieto, Italy to walk the final leg of the Via Fracigena to Roma. I had walked from Firenze to Orvieto with my friend, Rich Gorton. Two years ago, Monique guided me on trails around her hometown of Winterthur and the Zurich canton including Rheinfalls. She will walk from Le Puy to Conques (10 days) — her third time. I’ll go on from there.

The Le Puy train station was crowded with Camino walkers who spread out through the town. The cathedral, the official start point of this Camino, was built in the 11-13 Centuries during the same period as Notre Dame Paris though of different architectural styles. It occupies a commanding site near the top of a hill. Worshipers can enter through the floor before the main alter. Dramatic as is the church with its glass cross over the altar and Moorish arches in the ceiling recalling those of the mezquita in Cordoba. St James, St Jacques in French, has his place near the alter.

After our visit, dinner at the 7 Instant restaurant in the old town near our hotel. Monique had local trout that was similar to Arctic Char; I had the last portion of steak tartare prepared at the table. The steak tartare was classic with cut pieces of meat rather than being ground. The wines were delicious and only 5 € per 6 oz pour. We ended with desserts, Pavlova for Monique and a cerise (cherry ice cream) enclosed in a thin layer of colored white chocolate. To be in France.

Bonne Nuit. Our Camino begins tomorrow.

Day 12 — The Last Miles (17 Miles) 20 April

Back to Noja with my driver, Iñago. We bade farewell across from the church. Five trips together. This many taxi trips to and from end and starting points have never happened before; probably never will happen again.

My walk started at 9:20. The weather was overcast, no rain. Although sunshine is preferred, I’ll take any day with lower temperatures to walk distances over 12 miles.

This walk was unusual because it offered several decision points. My strategy was to take the shortest route — still 17 miles with about a thousand feet of elevation gain. At the first fork, I went left. Thank goodness for the Buen Camino app map. I would have missed the others because they were not marked like this one.

To keep pace but also to maintain energy, my fellow Camino walkers and I take breaks at critical intervals. This one was for a Coke and necessities in San Miguel de Meruelo. The bar was filled at 11:00 AM, Monday. These bars are the community centers of Spanish communities at any time of the day or night.

Guemes was the 12th mile. My wish for a cool and cloudy day evaporated. I stayed with the game plan of the shortest route and headed alongside the highway to Somo. I arrived at the ferry landing at 3:22. The ferry arrived at 3:25. I was in Santander by 4:00.

Somo In Foreground — Santander In Distance

I later met my Irish lads for a celebratory happy hour and dinner. They had taken the coastal route at Guemes rather than the straight paved road that I took. They reported that the beaches were stunning. However, that route would have added several hours and more miles to my journey. The surprise was that they had seen me walking to the ferry while they were on a bus from Somo to Santander.

We found an excellent restaurant in the centro. We started with a round of cerveza because we had to wait until 8:00 when dinner was scheduled to start. Precisely at 8:00, the waiter came over to take our order. We chose plates to share — rabas, fried squid found everywhere in Santander; selection of local cheeses and meats. More cerveza, of course.

We engaged other tourists who were seated at adjoining tables — a mother/son from Milan and woman from Toronto whose husband is playing in a touring band. I was fading out by 10:30.

I bade farewell to Paul, John, and Alan. They will be taking a bus back to Bilbao, spending the day touring Bilbao and the Guggenheim, and then flying back to Ireland the next day. We made a final toast to completing this Camino not only for walking this segment but also for sharing the experience. This moment is what epitomizes the spirit of the Camino.

Perhaps we’ll meet again next year in Santander. I am planning to complete the Camino del Norte in April, 2027. Buen Camino lads and all who have walked with me in spirit.

Day 11 — We Sang In The Sunshine (15 Miles) — 19 April

I was ready to go as Iñigo, my taxi driver, picked me up at 8:00 to return me to the Liendo church, yesterday’s end point. The ride took 20 minutes. I was on my way to the Playa San Julien.

I was a bit worried about this part of the trek. My guidebook stated — be careful by the cliffs in foggy weather. Heights and I are not compatible. I thought for a moment of bypassing Liendo and starting in Laredo, the next major town to the west.

I stayed with the program. I did not chicken out. I was rewarded with brilliant sunshine and an unforgettable coastline. At the of this segment, I reached a gate that looked like others that I had encountered. Except I had to climb over this one! It was wired shut.

I was back on paved roads into Laredo which extends along a spot where at the end I took a “ferry” across the gap to Santoña.

In the meantime, I met a cow who looked quizzically at me. Laredo is in the background.

Then, Rhubie’s cousin; the second orange tabby whom I saw up close. She could have been her dopplebanger.

After walking through what seemed like the main intersection of Laredo, I decided to stop for breakfast. I had missed mine at the hotel because I left there at 8. Breakfast was served later because it was Sunday.

As I finished, the three Irish Amigos appeared. They had been dropped off a few minutes before at the main intersection. What timing. (No, they did not complete the missed segment.)

Off we went to reach the ferry at the end of the spit. The corniche fronted luxury looking apartment buildings and water front restaurants. As we reached the end, Paul spotted the ferry. I must admit that I expected something bigger and a dock. No dock, just the boat at the shoreline. The fare was 2.50€ cash like the other ferry I had taken.

We disembarked at Santoña and stopped for coffee; a Coke for Alan. I asked that if the restaurant had Wi-Fi (pronounced whiff-ee) and if they stamped the credential. No said the head waiter to both requests. I asked him to mimic the sign, no goal. All in good fun.

We walked for another 2 hours and stopped for lunch. Cerveza of course and hamburgers and pizza. Both were good. The hamburgers were rare. So be sure to ask for cooking time if you don’t want real red meat. I don’t know how to ask for a different meat temperatures. Rare is fine with me.

The restaurant also serves seafood. The shellfish were awaiting in tanks. Shrimps to order.

Over some cliff and we were nearing Noja. We had taken the short cut and ended on a beach with Noja in the distance. The sun had shone on us the entire day.

The church was my end point. We made it in another hour. Across from the church, cerveza grande of course while I soaked in the rays waiting for Iñago and his magic carpet to return to my hotel in Escalante. It was 5:00 PM. We had smiled all the way.

Day 10 — Long But Smooth (16 Miles) 18 April

Castro-Urdiales was a surprise sleeper. Beautiful setting, interesting history, good food, nice people. As I started back on the Camino, young men were putting a boat in the water. Rather than a crew of 8, this one had 12. Must be a particular Spanish boat used in competition.

The colors and ruggedness of the beach stood out in the early morning sun. About 2 miles out of town, I looked back on the coastline. In the far distance was the mountain that framed Pobeña.

The Camino del Norte goes along a fairly flat trail on low cliffs. We shared the grounds around a monument to what or whom I don’t know with a herd of goats — all were black except for one. They were non-plussed when we came upon them. Just some humans treading into their space.

We were at the one-third mark and approaching 11:30. Conveniently, we were entering Islares where we stopped for cerveza and tapas (note: we are longer in Basque Country where the correct term for small plate items is pintxos). I shared a table with three Irishmen from Cork, Ireland. They were on their first Camino. Paul talked about doing a Camino for several years. He finally decided to stop the talk and do the walk. He invited his brother-in-law John and friend, Alan. Paul told me that he was going on Camino alone if no one came along. The Three Amigos, they said. I added plus one. They are using the same tour organizer as I am — Camino Ways.

About two hours later, we stopped for another beer. We talked about politics, growing up in Ireland, the loss of the pub culture, changes in career — the usual stuff men talk about. As we had gotten a mile down the road, Paul received a call that their taxi driver was picking them up at the bar where we had our second beer. They turned around to meet him.

Well lads, if are reading this, you missed an 800 foot climb up the mountain just minutes after you left and another 5 miles to the church in Liendo. The good news is the Camino is smooth even the unpaved sections. You will have a fun challenge ahead of you if you go back to where you turned back as tomorrow’s start point.

My destination was the Lienda church. I reached it at 4:30. I called for my taxi to take me to Escalante, town about 15 miles away. Apparently, we are walking in low season and many accommodations are not yet open. I’ll be taken back to the Lienda church tomorrow as my start point for the walk to Noja.

I was in my hotel by 6:30. I was tired and hungry. Rather than wait for a restaurant to open for dinner (9:00 PM in Escalante), I went to the local cafeteria for a hamburger, Russian salad, and a cerveza. I treated myself to a small cup of chocolate helados at a shop on the way back to the B&B. The ice cream almost as good as the Cup at home. Time for bed. The taxi is coming at 8:00. The good news is that I am staying in the same B&B tomorrow night. So, no need to re-pack my suitcase. Sorry, I forgot to take a photo of the hamburger.

Day 9 — 99% Paved (17 Miles) — 17 April

Incredible! The paths on this stage were paved except for two short sections. One of those sections used gravel that was smoothed to an even surface. There were a few significant uphill sections but with paving, I could create a powerful rhythm of evenly spaced steps. No zigzagging as well. I made record time as I finished in Castro-Urdiales in Cantabria.

The day started with a substantial breakfast. The image does not include locally produced yogurt and cut fruit. I was tanked-up with fuel for the day to come.

Every Basque city is built on hills; Portugalete is no exception. What surprised me were the people movers on the main street that ascended out of the Old Town. I’ll admit that I cheated on a few steps; I could not resist taking them to save steps for later in the walk. Also, the novelty attracted me,

Reaching the highway on the outskirts of town, a skyway whisked me over the highway and continue alongside before becoming a road catering to walkers and cyclists. No cars! It went this way for almost 10 miles until coming to a T at Pobeña where I stopped for a Coke and a half sandwich.

Pobeña was filled with people coming to the beach, enjoying the sun, or walking a short section the Camino. I could not resist asking these three people plus dog for a photo. I have had only one rejection so far.

Enough tarrying. Miles were ahead. The Pobeña beach is picturesque from sea level to the cliff view (after climbing 80 steps).

After a long stretch along the ocean, the Camino descends to the village of Onton. Two roads diverge on a concrete road, I took the one to the right.

But …. I had to share the road with large trucks, fast cars and motorcycles. If I gone left, I could have made 20 mile club again. Not.

Up a 10 percent grade and down into Mioño, my first stop in Cantabria. I celebrated with my afternoon cerveza or was it to rest my weary legs. I also met my second American on this Camino.

Knowing that the finish line was near, I went into full gear through the tunnel between Mioño and Castro-Urdiales reaching my new temporary home: #10 — not Downing Street but Calle Ardigales. After 17 miles even with paved paths, I dropped full force onto the bed.

I took two hours to recover and then hit the streets for Friday night — I think evening is a better descriptor for me. Located on the ocean, it is not surprising that C-U has a harbor and being a Catholic nation, a church founded on a prominent or promontory location.

I am not sure how to describe the church architecture: Romanesque with Gothic features? Below are several images of the church. The rear view reminded me of Van Gogh’s painting of the Church at Auvers.

Added bonus. I happened upon a rehearsal of the local wind instrument orchestra and chorus: Beethoven’s Symphony #9, Ode to Joy; Handel’s Hallelujah Chorus; and Verdi’s Nabucco Chorus of the Hebrew Slaves. Beautiful music filled this church.

Time for dinner? 8 PM, Spanish time at Asador El Puerto with a harbor view. Tomato salad and paella marisco with pours from Rueda and Albariño.

The servers asked if I wanted dessert. I begged off because I wanted to try the churros from a stand on the corniche. Alas, it was closed. Pobrecito.

Day 8 — Deja Vu All Over Again? (13 Miles) — 16 April

This walk brought back memories when Laird Evans and I ended our 2021 Portuguese Camino sojourn in Bilbao.

The boulevard that I walked out of Bilbao was the same one we followed to return our rental car. We were surprised that our return point was not the railroad station but the underground parking garage of a large shopping mall in the middle of the modern section of Bilbao. We had to do some frantic hunting to get our car back in time.

What was new was climbing two major hills that form the western side of the valley that contains the river that runs from the Bay of Biscay 15 miles inland to Bilbao. Urban development was originally founded along the river and expanded uphill from there. Almost all streets, roads, and paths are uphill and their corresponding downhill in Basque land.

A bit further along, I took a final look back at Bilbao. The tall building in the background is across a plaza from the Guggenheim Museum. Some new skyscrapers are going up in central Bilbao. But the skyline is relatively low and flat with most residential apartment buildings no higher than six stories. As you can tell, the donkeys were not impressed. I did find one friendly fan nearby. Or perhaps another — maybe Banksy left some graffiti for me. (Liberal reference to Banksy, my apologies.)

I arrived in Portugalete at 3:30 PM. Laird and I were here in 2021 after taking a 25 minute subway ride from Old Town. We took a trip actoss the river via the Viscaya Bridge inaugurated in 1893. The bridge was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2006. I have never seen another like it in the world. Truly unique. We walked the corniche, ate lunch, and returned to Bilbao by subway.

This time I checked into the Gran Hotel Puente Colgante. Manuel Calvo y Aguirre, a wealthy Cuban, willed his mansion to become a hotel that has hosted royalty, and the well heeled. I was given a third floor, the highest, room with a river view courtesy of Fernando, the front desk manager. Thank you Fernando for enhancing my “all over again” experience (Yogi Berra).

Before dinner, I walked to the lighthouse on the westside of the estuary. Laird and I had walked the eastside. The fisherman were casting their lines; no caught fish were seen though. Scores of people of all ages were out strolling — the paseo. You don’t see that back home. Architectural styles of bygone eras lined the corniche. My hotel was no exception.

Dinner time had arrived — 8:00 PM, the standard starting time. I chose the pork and beans (not Campbell’s), the squid in its own ink (I must admit that I like it grilled better), and ice cream, yes no flan, that was more like a semifreddo. My wine glass was filled twice with a Basque dry white wine. More was offered but I refused because I needed to be read for tomorrow’s walk. I did debate that question (more, señor?) in my head for several minutes. The meal was an elegant and superb rendition of Basque cuisine. Camino Ways, my tour organizer, had chosen a winner.

I concluded the evening with another walk by the bridge and adjacent park. Deja Vu All Over Again? Not quite.