Day 8 (27 April) Three Waves Of Rain — 20 Miles

I was in full uniform (raincoat, rain pants) when I left Logroño because it was pouring. I didn’t know it then but this morning’s rain was the first of three to come during the walk.

My hotel was on the Camino. I turned left out of the hotel and went on the Marqués de Murrieta (you may have seen the name on a label on a bottle of Rioja) before I started on a long trail in a city park. It eventually came to the city reservoir where fisherman were sitting talking up a storm waiting for a hit. Perhaps their talking helped end the rain. By then, I had shed my raincoat and rain pants. The scene was sublime especially in the morning light.

Hill climbing began after leaving the reservoir behind. I passed through vineyards of aging vines until I reached the top of the final hill from which I could see the reservoir and Logrono in the distance.

Once over the hill, my sights were set on reaching Navarrete, the halfway point of this stage. I was immediately taken with the image of a large bull on top of the next hill. I have no clue why it was placed there. Even in the 21st century, the bull holds a special place in the Spanish imagination.

At this point in the walk, I thought that I had beaten the odds of being rained on. I was humbled again. Black clouds appeared; the skies opened. I could easily put on my raincoat but what about my rain pants? I endured 30 minutes before being able to put them on while in the Navarrete’s cathedral. The church was dark so who knows what else happens in the pews. I was stunned by how ornate the main alter was as was the alters of almost every church that I had entered on this trip. I can’t fathom how much wealth was concentrated in constructing these churches.

Within 30 minutes, the rain ended. Off came the raincoat but I decided to keep on my rain pants just in case. For once, I had made the right decision because with 6 miles to go, I could see another rain front coming from the high point of this stage, Alta de San Anton.

By the time I had descended into the valley, the storm was upon us. Not only did it pour but the wind was so strong that the raindrops felt like bee stings when they hit my face.

My fellow Caminoites endured the rain for four miles or about an hour and half. When the front went by, the skies cleared. I took this photos about two minutes after the rain went by. Hard to believe.

I continued along the path until I reached Najera. I stopped for a beer and some fish before checking into the hotel. I was famished. My walk clicked in at 20 miles (into the wind). I had made it.

Dinner started early for Caminoites at El Trece (13) around the corner from the hotel. I couldn’t pass up ( or is it pass on) the red beans — for the third time. The main was qfried sardines. I ended with probably the best flan that I have ever eaten. The custard was firm and the caramel was slightly burnt and thick on the top. The local red wine was good.

After dinner, I took a stroll with the other hundreds of locals. A carnival was in full motion. The Rio Najerilla next to the festivities was quiet as sunset was in progress. The churro truck that was mobbed a few minutes before was on a well deserved break. I walked back to my hotel.

Hotel Hispanio: 2.5