What this area is lacking in scenery is certainly filled by friendly people. Maria, the owner of La Costa del Adobe in El Burgo Ranero, gave all of us big hugs when we left her hostel after breakfast. Do they give such hugs in Kansas, Toto?

Off we went along a straight road until it took a right hand turn after seven miles. Yes, it is flat. Yes, the road is like those straightaways in the Midwest. But the landscape is beguiling in its own way. The road is deserted and the fields often are bathed in a multitude of colors. I kept thinking — Toto eventually found his way home.


We eventually reached Reliegos, a bit more than halfway to our destination. Time for a beer. While enjoying our beers, Andreas and Duna appeared. Since we welcomed them to our pack, they have been faithful members. This was our fourth meeting on the road.

As we left Reliegos, we were lead by the ubiquitous yellow arrows and a clearly laid brick line that was capped with the Camino scallop shell. People on the Camino route take pride in their association with the Camino.


We made our final push for Mansilla de las Mulas. We have observed a strong regional pride on the directional signs on the Camino. We are in Leon. The Camino sign below showed that Castilla was crossed and whited out. In Castilla, Leon was erased, After centuries, deep regional pride still reigns even after the provinces were combined in 1983. Old identities die slowly, if ever.

After settling into our hotel, we all did our laundry before searching for a bar. We found one in the middle of town. Besides beer, I tried their Albariño — 2.40 Euro for a good pour. By 6:00, the place was filled with locals. Keith and John blended in by playing cribbage and gin. I did too by typing away on my iPhone.



The menu of the day at the Albergueria del Camino was satisfying. I had asparagus wrapped in Serrano ham, a broiled sea bream, and Greek yogurt with local honey and walnuts. A good ending for the day. We weren’t in Kansas after all. Tomorrow, Leon.


a nice walk today! Not too taxing. It looks like beautiful countryside there. All your meals are interesting- it is obvious you have a wide ranging taste. The asparagus looked especially delicious! Have a peaceful sleep!
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You have changed the lives of so many including me, with your passion for walking, you might want to share this more broadly! A YouTube channel?
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