Day 10 (5 April) — A Surprisingly Long Day — 20 Miles

According to my schedule, I was to have an easy day of 12 miles (20 km). No big deal. I enjoyed breakfast at 8:00. Toured the Leon Cathedral at 9:30 and the Real Colegiata de San Isidoro at 10:30. I had planned to be at my B&B by 4:00 at the latest. Alas, I had to push hard to make it by 7:00 because of a big surprise. One of my cardinal rules is to never walk in darkness. Where I am now is really dark.

Though not as large as the Burgos Cathedral, Leon is still a magnificent Gothic church. Stained glass rose windows are at the top of the nave and each transept plus rows upon rows of rising windows that cast a lovely patina onto the walls. The doorway on the side next to its cloister is still intact with some original colors. The frontal view of the cathedral shows the flying buttresses that support the high walls of the nave.

A few blocks away was San Isidoro, a fine example of a Romanesque church.

Time to get moving — 11:00. I walked by the Parador Hotel on Plaza San Marcos that was filmed in the Way. What an impressive facade that features the shells that symbolize the Camino. It was right next to the building that housed Concinandos, our one star Michelin restaurant from last night.

Across the bridge, the long walk for the next eight miles began on a main street and highway of bars, stores, and apartment buildings. There was one welcome sight during this stretch. Imagine seeing such a building with its sign in the US. The bathroom was clean and a place for a moment of relief.

A mile past the oasis, I came to a fork in the road. The guidebook opined — go to the right, more of the same. Go to the left, a walk in the countryside. Hard to say if the left fork is less traveled by at high season. During my time on it, I encountered one pair of German women. Here are highlights from this stretch.

I stopped in Chozas de Abajo for a cerveza break just after the bar sign painted in the road. Looking over my hotel reservation, I had my big surprise of this walk. Rather than being 5 km away from hotel in Villar de Mazarife, I calculated that I was about 18 km away – west of Villavante. Based upon distance and my pace, I might make before 7:00. I did not want to walk in darkness. As you can tell from the photo of the distance marker, there are no lights on the road.

I tried to speed up my pace which until that point was leisurely. The road seemed endless as I passed through Villar de Mazarife which I thought was my destination. Then passed the outskirts of Milla del Páramo.

The paved road ended and I started down a winding dirt road that eventually straighten. The Camino signs were still on the road, whew. I eventually met some locals who knew Molino Gauloches. Yes, go straight and then turn right.

I faithfully followed Google Maps. Indeed, the pin showed that the MG was to the right of the road. I continued on past the Camino signs directing pilgrims to Villavante.

As I approached the pin, the road dead ended at a recently renovated railroad track. There was the pin; there was the railroad track. Still having faith in Google Maps, I turned right and walked the railroad tracks for 400 meters until another dirt road appeared along the side the tracks. Like mirage but real, a car appeared. I waved it down. I asked the driver where MG was. He pointed to his right. A large house was set in a large field. I made it — 7:00.

The husband and wife owners were a welcome sight. They offered me a beer in a frosted mug. My room was very comfortable and the bathroom had traditional fixtures.

After cleaning up, dinner was served at 8:00 consisting of garbanzo soup, roasted chicken thighs (crunchy skin), flan, and vino tinto. After dinner, I sat by the wood burning fireplace and sipped a last glass of vino. All is well, that ends well.