Day 9 (18 March) 20 Miles. The Invisible Hand

We started at 8:45 this morning anticipating a long day. The skies were blue and I only wore my wool t-shirt. A local commented that the weather was unusual because March weather is bleak and rainy like the days before our tourist respite in Baiona. Seventy degrees plus blue skies? Something was afoot in the weather. We liked it just fine although we forgot to pack sun block. We bought some when we entered Vigo.

Our route took us along the shoreline of towns with sandy beaches and built up “boardwalks” like the Jersey shore. We passed our first palm tree. We walked on a few beaches; to exit one, we had a climb up a long stairway with steep steps. Glad we did hill training. We also saw an unofficial sign with 115.8 kms posted. I emphasize unofficial.

We were closing in on noon. We spotted a restaurant with outdoor tables. Who did we meet for the fourth time – our Canadian friends – Jennifer and John. They are walking free lance choosing hotels each day. They spent the previous night in the mountains and were on their way to Vigo but staying at a different hotel. Coincidence? Is there an Invisible Hand moving pilgrims on the Camino?

We pushed on to Vigo along a lovely path by the sea. We crossed under a major road. Within 50 meters, a construction fence blocked our path. We detoured up a path right into a highly urbanized part of the city with buzzing cars speeding in and out of the roundabouts. The detour probably added a mile to our distance.

We were in a gritty part of the city along the harbor front. My iPhone lost power so we relied on Laird’s Waze to bring us home. Tired, feet hurting, our receptionists checked us in, and connected us to WIFI. Boots off, shower, and we were down for the count.

Two hours later (8:30 PM), we arrived at Morrofino for dinner – a Michelin cited restaurant serving good food at a good price – not a starred one.

We chose the menu with seven courses (two dessert courses of the seven) with an Albarino. Each course was small but very tasty. Every dish was excellent. We think the potato waffle with kimchee and smoked eel was outstanding. The kimchee taste was there but subtle. We had our first taste of ice cream combined with what the menu stated was blondie chocolate cream. Blond chocolate? I went with the flow.

When we arrived at opening time, we were one of two occupied tables. Like our experiences in the Middle East, we were wondering how this restaurant could stay afloat. The next arrivals came around 10 PM. We left around 11 PM, here’s what it looked like. Morrofino was hopping.

The city was busy as well. We took a deep breath and made it back to our hotel. I slept uninterrupted until 6 AM, a world record for me.