Day 1 (6 May) Rain! — 20 Miles

My walks have taught me to accept whatever comes along. Weather is what Mother Natures gives. So, Day 1 began at 9:15 AM with me in full gear just like Day 1 last year on the Camino Portuguese.

Luckily, I had purchased a guidebook of this Camino that included a map of the pathway through the city until I could find the first signpost near the main entrance of the train station. From there, it was spotting the Camino shells and yellow arrows.

After walking 4 miles in heavy rain, I came upon a group of walkers huddled under the roof of Chapel Carmen. Mucho gustos we’re shared all around. The couple to my right as you look at the photo were from the Canary Islands. I ran into them several times afterwards as we passed one another on the route. The rest were locals out for a day’s walk in the rain! We stamped our credentials as evidence that we were progressing along. Even in the rain, smiles abounded.

By 2 PM, the clouds had parted and the sun came out full of heat. Here is an image of a valley with rolling hills in the background. I was assured later that the mountains will be coming. Yet, this leg had 2000 feet of ascent and 2500 feet of descent. Hills? They too can tax your feet and hips.

Even with water fortified with electrolytes, my body was craving food and some Spanish cerveza after 16 miles. I was teased along the route by signs advertising an inn/restaurant every kilometer or so. The last sign pointed right with 50 meters to go. It was more like 200 meters — each meter felt significant at this point in the day.

At the Villa Palatine, I asked for fabada — remember the Asturian bean stew? No go on Saturday. The substitute was soup of garbanzo beans and langoustines. Think of a slightly thinner lobster bisque with beans. Delicious. Two large beers in frosted mugs helped my mood too.

A man at the next table, Senor Chama, gave me a thumbs up for loving his beloved Asturian cuisine. He beckoned me over to his table and poured me some sider the Asturian way. Yes, they (most often waiters and waitresses) really pour sider this way for locals and tourists alike. I think that the technique enhances the liquid’s effervescence.

My feet were sore now after reaching the 20 mile mark. I entered Grado and made the call to the Rural Palacio Fernandez where I was staying. It is 8 km outside of town. Marta and her daughter picked me up. I was the only guest for the night; tourist season hasn’t started yet. Here is a view of my room and from my room.

My dinner was simple but completely farm to table except for the tomatoes. Even the beer was local to this valley. I devoured the salad and ate half of the tortilla — the other half will be breakfast tomorrow. I asked about the cheese that topped the salad because its color was rusty red. Marta said that the cheese from her valley was made with paprika. Each valley has its distinctively styled cheese. I was not surprised given the number of hills that I had traversed. I wondered what Alfonso II thought as his entourage progressed along the rocky trails that I had walked. Off to bed with cow bells ringing from a distance.