Day 9 (14 May) Downhill To Lugo — 21 Miles

This day promised to be mostly downhill as we exited the mountains to the east. But first, one last serious climb over the ridge with wind generators that were in the background of yesterday’s last photo.

Today was the easiest and for some the last true day of the Primitivo because the challenging walks were behind us. Here’s Bernard, the carpenter, who is leaving the CP in Lugo. He was so pleased to have walked the CP. A dream fulfilled.

In two days, the Primitivo meets the French Way in Melide. The elevation changes are not as dramatic and the distances covered shorter. We’ll see what lies ahead. But let’s enjoy the moment.

Indeed, today was almost a walk in the park except we stilled covered 21 miles. The church in Vilabade was the most impressive since Grandes de Salime.

At the halfway point at Vilar, we stopped for coffee and Tortas Asturianos (similar to a pound cake) at the Pocina Muniz Albergue — highly recommended and a superb stopping point for those not heading directly to Lugo. I finally got a dose of puppy love. As Laird and I discovered on our Portuguese Camino last year, the dogs in Portugal and Spain do not understand English. They are really well trained and are often off leash. However, their owners must have told them to avoid strangers especially English speaking pilgrims.

Three hours later, we descended our final hill, crossed a bridge, and then made the steep ascent into Lugo. The city is the only one in the world that is completely enclosed by an intact Roman wall — a World Heritage site. There are 10 gates and 71 towers. The wall’s perimeter can be walked — about 2.5 km. One of the entry points is in front of the Lugo Cathedral.

The day concluded with a dinner with Gabriel. Our walking duo began in front of the San Salvador Monestery in Cornellana on Day 2. We were both tired and were sitting on park benches with our shoes off. He asked me the direction of the Camino. I soon followed and we began walking together. Serendipity. Who knew ahead of time.

We ate two preparations of Galician pulpo (octopus), one grilled and the other braised in garlic. With dessert, that was enough given how many pilgrim menus we enjoyed during the past week. No bottle of wine was included. The price? We were definitely back in the big city.

As I pass through the Gates of San Pedro, I will be less than 100km, the distance required to obtain a Compestella. Who knows what will happen in the final days of this Camino. We shall see.