Pre-Camino Warmup (18-19 April)

18 April

The airplane flights from Newark to Madrid and onward to Pamplona including the bus ride from Terminal 1 to Terminal 4 at the Madrid airport went smoothly. On my Newark to Madrid leg, I met a fellow from Tampa who was on his fourth Camino. He is the most committed Caminoite that I have met. He memorialized every walk with tattoos on his forearm. He will be starting in Pamplona and end in Santiago.

However, the way from the Pamplona airport to centro was a bit problematic. I had searched the web and found a detailed schedule stating buses leaving the airport every 20 minutes. Upon arrival, no busses. I was told to call a number to request a taxi. I tried the number but to no avail.

Others were in the boat. A line of 12 people had formed. Each time a taxi came, the driver would ask how many groups were waiting for taxis. He called his dispatcher and about 20 minutes later I was on my way into town.

While waiting I met Kristen who was with her father walking their third Camino. She is a web designer from Dallas; her father lives in Austin. She brought along temporary tattoo patches for people to display on their Caminos. What enthusiasm!

In April, no running of the bulls. One can safely walk the path that the bulls and the crazy runners take from the start corral to the bullring. Here are some photos of the pathway including a bust at the bullring of Hemingway who made the event famous in The Sun Also Rises.

Pamplona is more than just the bulls. Beautiful buildings and walkways abound. I took a stroll before dinner (the usual Spanish opening time of 8:30) and found the main public library, Paseo de Sarsate, and even a restaurant serving bubble tea. People were out and about on paseo.

As my custom, I searched ahead for some fine dining experiences. I chose Europa, a one star Michelin. When I mentioned the restaurant at my hotel reception, the staff commented that it was premier restaurant in the city. After enjoying my dinner, Europa is a must destination for foodies. Here are some images from dinner. Even tap water is respected in the restaurant.

Some Spaniards do stay up late. If one needs a late night bite (11:30), a Burger King is around the corner or use Door Dash. No Golden Arches in sight.

19 April

After a relaxed morning, the bus station was the next step to France. The bus was full. I recommend purchasing your ticket on line a few weeks beforehand (22 Euros). You will hate to be left behind with a 150 Euro taxi fare. Low season?

If you have taken a full sized bus in Europe, you have appreciated the driver’s skill. Our driver was excellent taking about 40 hairpin turns through the mountains. She stopped the bus for about three minutes when we entered Rocenvalles or Rocenvaux in French — the end point of Day 1. Why? Don’t know but I got a preview that tomorrow’s climb will be an arduous one – distance and elevation gain. I have prepared for this day with hill climbs with my friend Delia who became an American citizen this past Tuesday.

When we arrived in St Jean, I tapped the Google Map app and entered my hotel’s name. Voila, it was less than 30 meters away through one of the town’s gate. Checked in and was on my way to the pilgrim’s office to get my first stamp.

Others had the same idea. I waited in line for about an hour and spoke with a Dutchman who, of course, was fluent in English. My pilgrim’s passport was verified and stamped after which I searched out the post office for postcard stamps. Made it with about 10 minutes to spare before closing. Afterwards, I toured the town that included views of the Pyrenees from the Citidelle. Along the way, Rhubie’s cousin crossed my path at the Porte St Jacques.

For dinner, I chose Cafe Ttipia for its take on local cuisine. I enjoyed two “small” dishes: the cassoulet of chiporones (grilled squid) with a light garlic treatment and fois gras. Bread was eaten liberally for both dishes.

Unlike last night, I’m in bed at 9:30. Big day ahead and rest is the word of the moment.