Day 1 (20 April) Over the Top – 17 Miles

The most challenging stage of the Camino Frances is the climb from St Jean Pied de Pere to Roncesvalles, Spain. The ascent is about 4200 feet with a long descent into Roncesvalles.

I started at 9 AM and ended close to 5 PM. The day was glorious – cloudless, Carolina blue skies with very strong winds above 2000 feet on the Route Napoleon. I met the fellow who helped me yesterday at the Pilgrim’s Office in Orisson, a way stop serving food and drinks. He said that on the previous Monday, the route was hit with rain and snow. I had already passed a sign that showed chains were required on car tires before 1 April. Whew, dodged that bullet.

The first section is very steep with some parts at 20% grade. After about two hours, St Jean was in the distance framed by the foothills.

My fellow pilgrims and I eventually reached the Croix Thibaut that marked the ascent to the Col de Bentarte (1337 meters). The wind was fierce until we went through the pass that was about 20 feet wide. We were then in a wind break passing into Navarra (province of Spain) until we reached the Col de Lepoeder (1429 meters) – the highest point of this stage. We were back in the wind during our descent to Roncesvalles.

I would estimate that about 200 pilgrims were hiking to Roncesvalles. Not as many who walk the 100km from Sarria to Santiago but certainly more than the 30 or so in my cohort on the Primitivo. When I reached Roncesvalles, a long line of pilgrims were in the welcoming offices seeking lodging. The best offerings were shared rooms with 2-3 others. If you saw the movie, the Way, the 100 bed dorm room in the main hostel was converted into the smaller rooms. The moral of the story is book ahead.

I was surprised that Americans could have formed a plurality of the pilgrims; I met five Pennsylvanians. I chatted with a dozen New Zealanders traveling together (no Aussies yet), several Chinese and South Koreans, a South African, and plenty of Europeans.

The most frequent reasons for walking the Camino were: finding direction at a turning point in their lives, and seeking a different tourist experience especially for hiking enthusiasts. One fellow, Greg, is an ER physician at retirement age. He says the ER gives him purpose in life but the stress is overwhelming. Holt, a military veteran, is pondering whether to enter the Anglican ministry. Raye, a woman named after her grandfather, is taking a few months off after completing her time with a non-profit organization to figure out her next steps.

Then, there are those who walk because “it is there.” One woman has walked the John Muir trail and has biked across the US west-east, north- south. Two sisters, one of whom knows a former teacher from Centennial School in the 1980’s, are avid hikers and wanted share in the Camino experience. Several people mentioned “The Way” as their first introduction and inspiration for coming to the Camino.

For whatever reason, hearing and sharing so many life stories reinforces that we have so much in common — our shared humanity.

It is welcome change from the news at home.