Day 7 (26 April) Leaving Navarra – 19 Miles

Rain — the forecast predicted to start in the afternoon. I looked out the window of my hotel room. The skies seem to say that all will be well. Not to be swayed by my wishful thinking, I decided to start at 8 AM instead of my usual 9. Here are some photos from this morning walking through Sansol, Torres del Rio, finally stopping in Viana (about 2/3 of the way).

Near Viana, I met up with Robert who was talking by the side of the path with Kieran from West Cork. Along the path came Jerry formerly of Dublin, now Vancouver. We walked together towards Viana when I told them that they could go on. They are about 6 feet tall or more (see Jerry, second from left); their strides were so much longer.l than mine. I kept them in my sights. Eventually, with several uphill climbs to Viana, I caught them at LaTaverna on Viana’s main street. We all sat down (11 miles walked at that moment) and ate various types of tortilla (traditional, ham and cheese, and chorizo) along with beers. During that lunch, I became one of the four Irish Frances (after the Camino). I may apply for an Irish passport now.

The last third of the journey was yet ahead. We wound our way out of Viana.

As before, my Irish companeros took off; I walked this last section alone. I did not get lost because all of the forks in the road had clear signs. I knew that I had entered Rioja by not only the sign at the border but also the old vines in many vineyards by the sides of the path,

After a long descent but gradual descent, Logrono’s old city came into sight across the River Ebro. Turning right after the bridge, I walked about a half mile through old town until I reached my hotel. But before I did, I passed the parliament building for Rioja. An interesting object d’art was to its right. You can’t see it fully. It is made up of four large cleaning brushes like you see spinning on the sides of a car as it passes through a car wash. The woman was pushing a lever back and forth to make them spin. Perhaps it means — Rioja, maker of red wines, promotes clean government?Think about that piece next to our city hall.

When I went out for dinner, I passed by this exhibit. Indeed, the pieces were composed of spinning car wash mops. But my guess about cleaning government was wrong. Logrono was displaying outdoor art. These represented the swirling skirts of Spanish dancers entitled Dancing Carwash. It attracted many curious onlookers.

The Calle Mayor (Main Street) was filled with strollers and diners at 8:30. I spotted this restaurant that had no patrons on this very busy Friday night. Perhaps bad pr to get attention doesn’t always work out.

8:45 came. I had a solo reservation at Ajonegro (black garlic), a one star Michelin restaurant presenting Spanish-Mexican fusion food. I invited Robert who is leaving the Camino in Logrono to join me.

We chose the night “short” menu. The price was 72 euros. Robert ordered Aquarius, a flavored water brand, while I ordered various wines by the glass. The pours were 2 oz and were priced at 4 euros each.

I wanted to explore the cuisine as well as wine. I won’t describe every dish. I would be writing for another hour and a 20 mile stretch is ahead of me tomorrow. Every portion was small but more than satisfying. The use of Mexican chili spices was superb. Even after all of courses, we felt just right, not stuffed. Here are our three favorites.

We loved the artichoke. Lightly fried and baked with a Mexican chili and cheese. The plating enhanced the dish; the artichoke was like the center of the sun. My favorite wine of the night was the Rias Baixas from Galacia that paired so well with the artichoke.

Our second favorite was the steak tartare. How about the plating? You can combine the meat with the mustard flavored ice cream and eat them with or without the chips that were dusted with chili powder.

Our final favorite was the confit of leeks. Vegans would swoon. I just sat quietly and complemented it with a Rioja white.

Our dinner complete, we were invited to the kitchen to meet the chef-owners who created this wonderful fusion – she is from Mexico, he from Spain. They have had the star for two years. Perhaps in the future, we will return to experience what magical combinations they will have created.

Hotel Murrieta: 2