Day 11 (30 April) Two Bad Ass Women — 21 Miles

Today’s long journey started at 8 AM with clear skies with nice crisp air to breathe. A large Camino mural was painted on the side of a gasoline station on the way out of Belorado. Such signs may be “good business.” However, one can feel the genuine warmth from so many people who say Buen Camino as you pass them by. The Camino is woven into the cultural fabric of the people who live along its path.

This stage took us across fields, into the mountains, and by a memorial dedicated to locals who were executed by Franco’s troops in 1936. That event was the catalyst that began the Spanish Civil War. Although that war is long over, people don’t forget. Why do we keep making the same mistake that war and violence solves problems?

After walking over 20 miles, Rosa picked up two other hikers and me in Atapuerca (a World Heritage site). Atapuerca has very limited numbers of hotel rooms. Thus, we stayed at the Casa Rural that Rosa and her husband own and operate. It is up on a hill that overlooks the route that we had just walked. Just the day before, we all hiked through the mountains in the far background. Looking back gives one an appreciation of the miles covered. It is more than a number.

Dinner was served at 7:30. The first course was vegetable soup. It contained leeks, onions, carrots, potatoes. Delicious. We had a main course of local ham plus red peppers and a small salad. Dessert was three day old soft cheese with a slice of quince. Besides the red wine, Rosa served up the Spanish equivalent of grappa flavored with fresh fruit. I am surprised that I am writing this blog after such a meal — just a draft with revisions and editing in the morning.

My dining companions and I enjoyed one another so much that we will have late lunch after our walk into Burgos at a restaurant that specializes in Burgos cuisine — roasted lamb to be exact. In making our reservations, the online form asked if we wanted lamb because the chef needs advanced notice. We all said yes. Rosa had suggested Casa Ojeda. Voila, it was highly touted on the guidebook page (Fodor’s) that I had photographed before leaving on this trip.

The two ladies are from Houston. They are really “bad asses” as they described themselves. They will be going all the way to Santiago. Shirley siting next to me is 73 and June is 67. Most impressive is twenty years ago they completed the “double dip” of the Grand Canyon meaning they started down the south rim of the Grand Canyon at midnight, crossed the Colorado River and up to the top of the North Rim and reversed the trip back to the top of the South Rim in 22 hours. This was the first time that I had heard of the “double dip,” let alone meet anyone who has done it. Both Shirley and June have recently climbed to the summit of Yosemite’s Half Dome; Shirley has topped Mt Kilimanjaro. But the “double dip” was the most impressive feat in my opinion.

Pepino, an Italian from Capri, rounds out the quartet. He is on his fifth Camino and will be going all the way to Santiago. He agreed with me that if you love the ocean, the coastal Portuguese Camino is for you. He also commented how much he liked the Primativo because it had so few pilgrims on it. He was shocked as I was when in Melide where the Primativo meets the Frances, he woke up to the crowds of pilgrims in the town square and the trail.

Tomorrow will be bittersweet for me because these three will be moving on towards Santiago. But one needs to remember to be in the moment and embrace it. Who knows what tomorrow will bring.

El Brocal Fresno de Rodilla: 1.5