Day 12 (1 May 2024) Blowing In The Wind — 13 Miles

According to Shirley (one of the bad ass women), the forecast stated that the wind velocity was unsuitable for walking. It clocked in between 30-40 mph through much of today’s walk. Combine it with morning temperatures under 40, the conditions were challenging similar to the climb over the Pyrenees. I should add the Napoleon route over the Pyrenees was closed for two days before I went over and for two days after. I was lucky to have been in the sweet spot.

The vegetation during the first part of today’s walk was pretty austere. Near the peak of the hill, a large cross was planted to remind pilgrims that the Camino is or once was a religious undertaking depending on one’s beliefs. As I began my descent, Burgos could be seen in the distance.

In the valley, pilgrims stopped for refreshments, the most popular item was some form of coffee, and a toilet break. These bars/cafes are a very welcomed sight though I would prefer more of them and spaced about every three miles (one hour). Other pilgrims felt the same way.

Pilgrims can enter Burgos in two ways: the traditional route on paved streets that cuts through the northern part of the city or the river route that goes along the Rio Arionzon that is flanked on both sides by parkland. The trick is to make the correct left turn to the road that goes around the perimeter of the airport and to find the correct way through the suburb of Castanares. Not easy.

With some trial and error in Castanares, I made my way along the southside of the river. The pathway was crowded with adults and children. 99.99% of them were not walking the Camino. When I checked in at my hotel, I found out that today is a holiday — 1 May, Labor Day. I should have guessed this when I came upon a street demonstration in central Burgos.

I checked into my hotel at 1:30, the earliest of the Camino. My fellow diners and I from last night reserved a table at Casa Ojeda said to the best traditional restaurant in Burgos. We had to be there by 3:30, the last available reservation.

The ladies made it but Pepino was a no show. Too bad for him because indeed, as Rosa said, the roasted lamb cooked over a wood fire was exquisite — the skin was crisp and the meat was fall off the bones moist. Instead of potatoes, we all opted for the small salad of lettuce and onions similar to our sweet Videlia. We chose the house recommended Rioja. To end our meal, Shirley went for the chocolate “egg” while June and I went with the “our renowned puff pasty cake.” A special Galician liquor was offered — note Santiago in gray, right bottom corner, of the label. Maybe an informal imprimatur. I graciously accepted my glass on behalf of the three of us. It tasted like a very mild Chartreuse served chilled. A tray of petit fours were laid on the table. Everyone was happy. I wished them the best on their journey to Santiago. They have three weeks to go.

The afternoon was still young so I walked around the Plaza Mayor and the Burgos Cathedral which is a World Heritage site. I took a photo of the plaque designating the Camino de Santiago as a World Heritage tradition.

I ended today with a photo of Burgos at 9:24 PM from my hotel room.

I am saddened that adventure is almost over. Tomorrow, I won’t have to hurry to pack my luggage so that it is in the lobby by 8 AM. Breakfast will be leisurely. I’ll tour the Burgos Cathedral and have time to read the New York Times Sunday magazines and Smithsonians I brought with me. They were put aside so that I could write the blogs.

It will be a shift going from an active to a more passive traveler. But the next Camino from Burgos to Melide to complete the Camino Frances is brewing in my mind.

Thanks to all of you who read the blogs. Perhaps they will inspire you to consider experiencing a multi-day walk.

Buen Camino.

All the best.

Norte y Londres Hotel: 2