Day 1 (March 27) — Four of a Kind — 15 miles

When I landed in Madrid at 9 AM on Wednesday — two days ago, the skies were blue and bright with the temperature around 55. In the distance were snow capped mountains with dark clouds behind them. Not surprising because the climate of the region to the north of mountains is influenced by the Bay of Biscay (recently renamed the Gulf of Galacia – just kidding). Burgos and the Camino are in the north.

I awoke to dark clouds and 31 degrees, no rain in the forecast. I still packed my rain gear just in case.

I departed around 9:00. I was a bit off the Camino trail because of my hotel’s location. I walked towards the cathedral to pick it up.

On the way, I passed by an immense stone structure that now houses a cultural museum. The entrance was stunning. The sign to the side wrote that Christopher Columbus presented himself here to the monarchs (Ferdinand and Isabella as all American children know) after his second voyage to the Americas. I put my hand on the stone wall to absorb the spirit of that journey and history.

I have found that exiting cities are sometimes challenging including Burgos. Try finding the yellow arrow signifying the way. Arrow #3 is a softball.

The Meseta is indeed an expansive place but it isn’t that different from other generally flat rural spots like Estella to Arco to the east. Pilgrims do experience a steady climb during this segment until they reach the end of the valley with a steep downward path near Hornillos del Camino where I turned right to reach my B&B for the night in Isar.

Along the way, I stopped at a small chapel while leaving Rabe de Las Calzades. Senora Marita greeted me. We had a brief discussion about the Blessed Virgin, the Camino, and whether I was Catholic. She took the news pretty well that I was baptized Catholic but I had “fallen away” as the nuns once said about me. In spite of my religious state, we took a selfie. I am squinting in pain for having my photo taken.

Isar is a small village. The Hotel Rural La Consulta is in the middle of the village with a small bar and dining room. My room is the usual clean but no frills variety. Below is an image of the village out of my window at about 7 PM – dinner time.

I took a few photos of the three course meal: a delicious lentil soup (non vegetarian), pork slices with salad, and flan. We were served a glass of decent Rioja. I wondered whether inflation had caught up in this region. On my previous Camino Primitivo and the eastern segment of the Frances, I was presented with a full bottle of wine or at least a half carafe. In any case, one glass was sufficient.

But the treat of the night was that all four diners who are staying here have been (that’s me) or are currently living in Southern California. I never experienced four Americans in one B&B at one time, let alone four Southern Californians. Keith and John started in Pamplona ten days ago while Andrew started this morning in Burgos. The trio will be going all the way to Santiago. As far as we know ( a pretty limited sample), Keith also holds the title for now as the oldest person walking Camino (80). Darn, nothing I can do about this one.

Today reminded me of one of the Camino’s principles: Live in the present,