Day 7 (2 April) — Dull With Many Bright Spots —12 miles

I forgot to present a summary of John’s experience in the dorm-like albergue. After listening to his story, he definitely took one for the team.

I included a photo of the bunk beds in Day 5. John had his choice of bunks. He chose one of the down beds. Turns out he was next to a grizzly bear snorer on one side and a video game player on the other. After an hour, he had to tell the video game player to silence the sounds coming from his computer. The snorer went merrily on throughout the night.

The albergue provided the mattress, bottom sheet, and if one asked, a thin blanket. Most people who stayed in this albergue carried a sleeping bag or a liner and put it on top of the mattress. No towels are provided. The toilet had a sign asking everyone to sit when using it. Imagine what it would be like at night when males tried to aim. Hum, too much information. I was thinking what the dorm would be like in the summer when fully occupied. I should add that the dorm is co-ed.

No breakfast is provided. John came back to the hotel to take a shower. He needed a nap before heading out after us and before check out time. His behavior tells a lot about the quality of his sleep.

As I wrote before about staying in an albergue, NOT. I don’t need to suffer like pilgrims of old and the present.

The Camino can’t be at the top of its game everyday. I think that we finally reached the diminishing or is the better word, diminished returns of the Meseta.

We did have some bright spots on today’s walk. While walking out of Sahagun, we went by the archway that led to the Plaza Mayor. To our left was an unusual Camino marker. Note the gourd on the staff. That was used to carry water before our canteens and plastic bottles. How about those bronze sandals at the base of the rock?

We walked about seven miles before we entered Bercianos del Real Camino. A white box on a pedestal caught my eye. This was the third “free library” stand that I have seen in Spain. I am putting together a photographic print of the many such book boxes I have run across over the past five years. Good to know that book sharing is alive and well in northern Spain.

We reached the outskirts of El Borgo Ranero by 11:45. That time is earliest I have arrived at the end point of any walking stage. Before checking into our hotel, we stopped at our first opportunity to eat lunch at a small bodega, La Tienda del Sol.

Marissa was behind the counter. What an engaging personality. Keith and John each had a slice of tortilla. Andrew opted for the chorizo bocadillo (sandwich). I asked for a queso bocadillo. Along with the beers and sodas, we were almost satisfied. John and Andrew bought bags of Doritos, one of great American exports.

Andrew started on his next leg of 6 plus miles. We checked into our hotel. One thought that I can’t get out of my mind is — where are all the people in this village? I took this image of Main Street at 1:00. Not everyone is having a siesta break or are they?

The early arrival gave me another opportunity to catch up on reading and writing this blog. But 6:30 came sooner than expected. We were out the door to find Hostel El Peregrino for dinner.

We all agreed that this dinner was the best so far in terms of home cooking. The dishes were familiar but the portions were generous and well prepared.

Our starters were smoked salmon and goat cheese salad, and paella. Starters? They were about what we eat for an entire meal. Then came the mains: fried squid for Keith, roasted chicken for John who did not want his plate photographed (?), and my bacalao (cod fish). We ended with flan and apple tart. Each dessert plate was well dressed with a dollop of whipped cream. The vino tinto was produced about 5 km down the road. Everything was delicious.

We could tell that the entire operation was a multi-generational effort. Here is the family: grandmother, daughter, son-in-law, and granddaughter.

As I have written before, the Camino contains many surprises. Even in one of its most uninteresting sections, beauty can be found.