Day 13 (8 April) — Ups and Especially Downs — 19 Miles

Today’s hike started at 8:00 and ended almost 12 hours later. My fellow pilgrims and I were looking forward to the final climb to the Cruz Ferro and reaching the highest point on the Camino. Those who did not have Ponferrada as a final destination seemed to sense how hard the descent would be. Andrew had forewarned the rocky road ahead. They were right. This stage was one of the toughest I have ever experienced in all of my previous journeys.

The day began with a beautiful sunrise in Rabanal. I met a Berliner who was soaking in the beauty of landscape before her. She had met a Mexican woman the day before and was waiting for her so that they could walk to the Cruz Ferro together. The photo did not catch her at her best. She was animated when she talked about this moment; she was living in the present.

The first challenge of the day was making the final climb to the Cruz Ferro. If one is in shape and is carrying a light load, this part of the stage is easy. I reached Foncebadon in just over an hour. The Monte Irago albergue was hosting several pilgrims. This albergue is featured in my guidebook. Everyone gave the albergue thumbs up for its food choices. Delicious, they said, and the prices were reasonable. I sipped my cafe con leche. Did you notice the angle of the hill?

While finishing my cafe, Maria and Elise arrived. I had met them back on Day 3 in Frómista. I described them as two Spanish women who had to walk to the next town at the end of the day to find a room. Turns out that Maria is Spanish from Madrid and Elise is Basque from France. They became friends after meeting on a previous Camino and now walk segments during their vacations.

But the real story goes back to Day 5 when Andrew lost his pilgrim’s credential. We searched for it and John had delayed his departure from Calzadilla de La Cueza (after his night in the albergue) to ask the proprietor of the cafe about the credential. No such luck. We concluded that it was lost.

On Day 11 when Keith, John, and I were having dinner in Astorga, Maria and Elise walked by our table and recognized us as Andrew’s friends. They told us that they had Andrew’s credential. It was pinned to the cafe’s bulletin board. They gave it to Keith and we will return it to Andrew in Sarria. The invisible hand of the Camino works in mysterious ways.

Before reaching the Cruz Ferro (about 1.5 miles up from Foncabadon), I looked back on the Meseta with the reflections of Foncebadon’s roofs on the left of the photo. We had come a long distance.

At the Cruz Ferro, many pilgrims leave a stone as a symbolic thanks for their lives, as a remembrance of a person in their lives, or as a wish for the future. I was surprised to see Keith and John sitting on a bench near the cross. They said that they had been there for an hour immersed in their thoughts.

You might think reaching the Cruz Ferro is the climax of the day. But it’s only 10:00 in the morning. The real adventure was only starting with the treacherous and torturous trek down the mountain at least in my opinion. If one were 20 years or more younger, the downhill probably was much easier. Perhaps this memorial presaged what was ahead.

The downhill path was strewn with rocks that required zigzagging, and twisting that resulted in endless uneven footfalls. The section from the Pena de La Escurpia (the high point) to El Acebo — about 2.5 miles— was particularly steep. Along the way, a band of us formed to keep our spirits up. When we sited El Acebo from above, we all said in unison — we can smell the beer. Here we are in El Acebo with five beers and one wine.

From left to right: John and Simone from Australia, John, Jessica from Belgium, Keith, and Ron.

Alas, the rocks continued for almost another 9 miles to the outskirts of Ponferrada. My knees were fine but my right hip was very sore requiring my first pain pills of the trip. I also needed water and some Coca Cola to boost my energy. Thank goodness for the kindly bodega owner in Molinaseca. Shopkeepers and bar owners must do brisk business during the summer season. Even today, I started with my puffy down coat and ended with just a short sleeved t- shirt. It’s only early April.

I reached my hotel as the sun was setting. After collecting my wits and what energy remained in my body, I was rewarded with a most tasty meal. The salad was as fresh as can be. The pollo asado (grilled chicken) was moist with my favorite crispy skin. Add in a small dish of chocolate mousse and a half carafe of local red wine, the day ended with a sore body but with a happy spirit.