Day 14 (9 April) — From Knights Templar To Bierzo Vineyards — 14 Miles

Ponferrada is known for its association with the Knights Templar. One of their castles built in the 13th Century sits in the middle of the city. My hotel was 250 meters from it and on the Camino path. Too bad that it opened at 10:00. I also visited the church near the castle — note the Templar cross on the wall. The Templars also have a namesake bar. I am sure a revenue generator.

Several different Camino signs were displayed in the Ponferrada area. Here are some examples and one that was explicit — “This way Pilgrims.” It was time to say goodbye to Ponferrada.

The terrain changed quickly. We were in the heart of the Bierzo wine zone, a wine unknown to me until now. The rolling hills offered a wonderful perspective by which to view the vineyards. Old and new vines. Later in evening, I tasted a Bierzo wine but now the prime objective was to enjoy the beauty of the countryside.

While on the trail, I caught up with Hoo, one of the Malaysian contingent whom our pack had met 10 days ago. He told me that he had walked with Andrew and his friend, Brian, two days ago at Foncebadon. He and his merry group seem to be everywhere on the Camino. An interesting fact, he is 60 and has completed 32 triathlons. Mountains? No problem.

I also made the acquaintance with Amelia from Toronto. What happened to other Canadian friend, Rachel, from Day 3? We had a moment of patriot fervor singing the Canadian national anthem. I once attended McGill University’s French School in 1968. Remember a fellow named Pierre Trudeau? I was in Toronto on 25 June when his party won the Canadian general election. People were wild on Yonge Street in Toronto. Trudeaumania made an impression on this then 20 year old.

After 7 hours on the road, I reached Villafraca del Bierzo which is the gateway to another serious mountain climb before entering Galacia, the province where Santiago is located. The town is very hilly with two rivers running through it. The first photo of the church was taken from the east. I was starting a steep descent into the town. After walking one of its main streets, the Camino path took me across the river to my hotel. Another pilgrim statue was located at one end of the bridge.

My hotel was located on right bank of the river as you look at the above photo. Here is the scene from the hotel’s restaurant.

I commented earlier about what I thought was possible inflation creep in the daily menu prices. I don’t think the memo was received in Ponferrada (see yesterday’s dinner) or Villafranca. Both were 16€ or $17.32 for their three course meals including wine and bottled water. Tonight, I had another fresh salad, two lightly fried trout, and flan. Thank you chefs. They allowed me to take their photo afterwards.

I tried to write this blog before going to bed. I could not after the hand holding the iPhone repeatedly dropped to my bed covers. I opened the window and fell asleep to sounds of the river flowing by.

I awoke at 4:00 after a good sleep to write this draft. Before shutting my eyes again, here is what I saw out of my window.