Day 17 (April 12) — I Thought It Rained Only On the Plain — 13 HoursMiles

It rained last night. It rained this morning when I started out 7:30. It rained during the entire walk. It is raining now.

I am not complaining because it is, what it is. Today was the first rain day of this Camino.

The rain creates its own lighting and mood. You can see the gray fog in the background of this Peregrinos statue at the edge of Triacastela. About 200 meters down the road, the T at the intersection forces one to choose left for the Samos flatter route (18 miles) or right for San Xil hill route (13 miles). Given the rain, I chose right. What I would have encountered on the Samos route will always be a mystery.

The Irish call this kind of day — a soft day. I saw no hard edges. The crowns of trees were light green as the leaves were starting to form. Clouds lingered in between the hills. The patter of the rain sounded in my ears.

I was told that the number of pilgrims would increase once I reached Sarria. But the numbers seemed to increase from O Cebreiro and even more from Triacastela. When I stopped for a cerveza in Pintin, pilgrims went by like runners at a marathon — in twos, singles, and sometimes three or more. I rarely had a moment when I could not see a pilgrim.

While making a brief stop at a funky walled in garden with a table of refreshments for pilgrims, Oscar Ramirez told me that his mother had passed on just a few hours before. Her demise was expected. His mother’s and Juan Pablo’s grandmother’s spirit lives on in them. Here they are at dinner two nights before. I captured them in the distance as they were walking the path. They are the figures in orange.

As I reached the outskirts of Sarria, I needed a refreshment break. It was a bit passed noon. This bar restaurant looked liked a good place for a short beer. However, when I saw the menu (a la carte, no pilgrim menu), I decided to have lunch. The clincher was the Chipirones which turned out to be one of the best renditions that I have had. Below is the grill master and my server. By the time I left at 1:45, the place was full of locals.

Sarria. The closest town on the Camino Frances to qualify for a Compestella. From my room, I have a panoramic view back to Triacastela and a limited one of the centro.

Our pack reunited for the first time since Day 6 when Andrew lost his pilgrim’s credential. In the doorway of Cinza e Lume restaurant, Keith, the senior member, handed Andrew, the junior member, the credential he started with in Burgos. Andrew’s daughter, AJ, witnessed the ceremony. She is joining her father on the final days to Santiago.

We asked Keith from Connecticut who planned to dine alone to join our table. I first saw Keith at my hotel in Rabanal the morning before our ascent and descent from the mountain with the Cruz Ferro. We all agreed that was the hardest day of our Caminos.

Dinner proceed with the chef coming to our table to explain the menu and take our order. That has happened once before in my dining career. I refrained from taking photos of all the dishes. I can do that on occasion.

I ordered the Huevos that were cooked sous vide at the bottom of the bowl. On top were sliced roasted potatoes, Iberico ham, a few slices of foie gras with black truffle dust. The chef mixed the ingredients. The result was an interesting combination of flavors.

My main course was monkfish on top of mashed potatoes. The fish was firm with a subtle seafood flavor. But I am not sure coating the fish with black coloring makes the dish attractive.

Keith from Connecticut prefers old world wines. He chose a Ribera del Duero, a deeply flavored long lasting Tempranillo with soft tannins. We pronounced it excellent.

We also tried two different Albarinos. The opaque bottle yield a flavor more akin to what I would call the usual Albarino flavor – very forward, citrusy, on the acidic side. The other was smoother but did not have the punch that is expected of this wine. No drops were left in either bottle.

It was near 11:30. Although tomorrow is Sunday, we pilgrims have another stage to walk. We ended our meal without dessert. We look forward to another get together along the route.