Lest you think that yesterday ended with the afternoon cerveza, I walked another 3 miles in the rain to reach my hotel. The Irish term for this kind of weather — a soft day. The hotel sits in the middle of an industrial complex and next to a park. Given its location, the hotel may have once owned a wide swath of property that over time sold parcels for industrial development. The structure is decades older than the buildings surrounding it.
My room was large and comfortable. One of the owners drove me to a restaurant for dinner. The beef was cut thin but was tender and flavorful. I also watched the first half of the Atletico Madrid v. Barcelona Champions quarter-final game. Barcelona won but AM moved to the semi-finals based on aggregate score. Fun to watch with the locals.
This stage was shortest that I have walked if I don’t count the rest day in Baiona on my first Camino with Laird. I started off walking by a rental equipment site, across a major highway (back to urban life), and up a mountain where I ran into John from England for the third time. He could not find an albergue that was open. He slept on the grass next to the road. He was beaming while telling me about the morning’s red sunrise. John is a true pilgrim.
As John and I talked, we greeted passersby, a few were pilgrims including Alison from Taiwan. She will be walking the entire Camino del Norte, backtracking by train to Leon, and then back to Santiago; she estimates 87 days. She was carrying a full backpack. She is 44. To be so young.
I pushed on alone after Alison stopped for lunch at the crest. The downhill was exciting. The Basques were and some are still skilled shepherds. They must have a dominant gene for negotiating hills. I hope that my knees don’t wear out before I get to Santander.
Reaching Old Town, I found that my pension was on the third floor of a renovated office building. Twenty-one rooms, mine was #321 — the farthest from the main entrance. After following a maze like corridor, I was pleasantly surprised to find a compact but well laid out room.
Reaching my destination so early, I sought out the Museo des Belles Arte. Most of the museum is under construction. However, one section was open with an exhibition of Denise Scott Brown, a renowned architect, who practiced with her husband, Robert Venturi in Philadelphia. I had met them in 1999, when they received honorary doctorates from Lehigh. They were friends of Greg Farrington, then president of Lehigh.
I still had time to tour the Guggenheim with its famous greeter known as the Puppy. The main exhibition was devoted to Ruth Asawa who made intricate metal weavings that were recently displayed at the Museum at the Museum of Modern Art. I was fortunate to see her work here.
I was bushed by this time. I walked back to my room while feeling the serenity of strolling along the river.
But my respite was short lived. Dinner at 8:00 PM at Los Fueros, a Michelin recognized restaurant with the Bib icon meaning good food at an excellent price. Many of these restaurants are as good as some one stars and at least half the price.
I chose the Menu Bilbao for 50 euros — my big splurge of this trip. I have included a image of the menu. Every item listed was presented and gladly consumed. Two white wines complemented the vegetarian and fish dishes: a white Rioja and an Albariño. A red Rioja crianza for pork dish. I could gladly serve these wines to anyone. My favorites of all were the artichokes — firm with the feather light hummus. The salad russe was my kind of salad with potatoes and mayo. All the dishes were very good but these stand out.
I should mention that if you want to dine here, make reservations. When I came at 8:00, many people were turned away. The service was very attentive. The 4 oz wine pours were 4.50 Euros each. A Bib Gourmand distinction well deserved.
My “off day” on the Camino.
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