Day 9 — 99% Paved (17 Miles) — 17 April

Incredible! The paths on this stage were paved except for two short sections. One of those sections used gravel that was smoothed to an even surface. There were a few significant uphill sections but with paving, I could create a powerful rhythm of evenly spaced steps. No zigzagging as well. I made record time as I finished in Castro-Urdiales in Cantabria.

The day started with a substantial breakfast. The image does not include locally produced yogurt and cut fruit. I was tanked-up with fuel for the day to come.

Every Basque city is built on hills; Portugalete is no exception. What surprised me were the people movers on the main street that ascended out of the Old Town. I’ll admit that I cheated on a few steps; I could not resist taking them to save steps for later in the walk. Also, the novelty attracted me,

Reaching the highway on the outskirts of town, a skyway whisked me over the highway and continue alongside before becoming a road catering to walkers and cyclists. No cars! It went this way for almost 10 miles until coming to a T at Pobeña where I stopped for a Coke and a half sandwich.

Pobeña was filled with people coming to the beach, enjoying the sun, or walking a short section the Camino. I could not resist asking these three people plus dog for a photo. I have had only one rejection so far.

Enough tarrying. Miles were ahead. The Pobeña beach is picturesque from sea level to the cliff view (after climbing 80 steps).

After a long stretch along the ocean, the Camino descends to the village of Onton. Two roads diverge on a concrete road, I took the one to the right.

But …. I had to share the road with large trucks, fast cars and motorcycles. If I gone left, I could have made 20 mile club again. Not.

Up a 10 percent grade and down into Mioño, my first stop in Cantabria. I celebrated with my afternoon cerveza or was it to rest my weary legs. I also met my second American on this Camino.

Knowing that the finish line was near, I went into full gear through the tunnel between Mioño and Castro-Urdiales reaching my new temporary home: #10 — not Downing Street but Calle Ardigales. After 17 miles even with paved paths, I dropped full force onto the bed.

I took two hours to recover and then hit the streets for Friday night — I think evening is a better descriptor for me. Located on the ocean, it is not surprising that C-U has a harbor and being a Catholic nation, a church founded on a prominent or promontory location.

I am not sure how to describe the church architecture: Romanesque with Gothic features? Below are several images of the church. The rear view reminded me of Van Gogh’s painting of the Church at Auvers.

Added bonus. I happened upon a rehearsal of the local wind instrument orchestra and chorus: Beethoven’s Symphony #9, Ode to Joy; Handel’s Hallelujah Chorus; and Verdi’s Nabucco Chorus of the Hebrew Slaves. Beautiful music filled this church.

Time for dinner? 8 PM, Spanish time at Asador El Puerto with a harbor view. Tomato salad and paella marisco with pours from Rueda and Albariño.

The servers asked if I wanted dessert. I begged off because I wanted to try the churros from a stand on the corniche. Alas, it was closed. Pobrecito.