The big decision of the morning was whether to wear rain gear or not. I ended up carrying my rain jacket and pants. It was iffy until about 11 AM when it seemed that they weren’t necessary. But it was still cold (40 degrees with a wind chill of 32).

As I left Puente La Reina, I passed an example of a well preserved shop dating from 1905. It would have been fun to have had breakfast there instead of at the hotel though not outside. I also captured the profile of the Romanesque bridge from which I took last night’s sundown photo. These small towns have maintained their characters even in 2024.

The first half of the walk was filled with ups and downs. The climbs were steep as were the descents. Along the way, I met up with some of the Kiwis and Aussies from my first and second days. Can you tell who belongs to each nationality? The couple on the left are Aussies and the four on the right are Kiwis. It’s the footgear that gives them away.

I must admit that I can more easily understand the Aussies. I was told that it has something to do with the way Kiwis pronounce vowels.

Eventually, we reached the hill town of Cirauqui requiring another climb. The town reminded me of those on the Amalfi coast and Sicily with their steps for sidewalks and hairpin curves. At one juncture, I had a choice. I think most pilgrims chose to go left.

After leaving Cirauqui, fields of yellow spread before us. So striking against the green and dark skies. In a few weeks, the color will be gone for another year.

I had reached Lorca, the halfway point. Time for some lunch. I was amused by the sign that welcomed every type of eater and offered non-Spanish dishes. This establishment even offered epson (sic) salts for tired feet!

I chose a small cafe at the end of town whose owners were Spanish and Chinese. They had met as university students in Rome. What a world! I asked to take their photo but the wife demurred; she said that she was shy.

But I did meet some satisfied diners who were not shy. Sean from Ireland had studied as a graduate student at Penn State. I chose the mixed salad and a draft beer – both were delicious and cost only 11.75 Euros.

Break time ended. Now for the final push to Estella. Almost immediately after leaving Lorca, I took this photo of a pilgrim framed within a tunnel of trees. I could not resist.

After winding through the countryside, I entered Estelle which was once a multi religious city with a large Jewish population. A plaque recounts the history of Jews in the city.

Several historic structures still stand in Estelle – the major church on the side of a hill and the palace of the Dukes of Navarra that is now a museum. After walking through the Castile gate at the south end of the historical section, I realized that I had to backtrack to get to my hotel. I’ll walk through the gate tomorrow to rejoin the Camino.

My hotel is located in Yerri section on the newer side of town; hence, the Yerri hotel. This long day led to my crashing until dinner time. In the restaurant, I met an Irishman, Robert, who was on his first personal Camino. Until now, he served as a guide for Camino tour groups that left him little time to experience the self-reflections and interactions with pilgrims outside of his tour group. You know that I had a lot to say.

We shared plenty of Camino and personal stories as well as dinner. I chose a salad of romaine lettuce hearts with anchovies. We both ate the pig knuckle. I ended with ice cream that had the consistency of semifreddo. Did you notice that no one was sitting behind Robert? The time was 8 PM. By 9:30, it was completely full. We were concerned whether the restaurant had enough customers to stay in business.

We might see one another at breakfast or on the road. He is on the road by 8; I at 9. But moments like these even only once are the treasures of the Camino.

Hotel Yerri: 2 but with bonus points for the anchovy salad making it 1.75

Mother Nature has a mind of her own. She brought rain to Northern Spain. It rained lightly throughout day known as a soft day in Ireland. Raincoats, rain pants, and ponchos were on every pilgrim’s body and mind.

Whether rain or shine (thank goodness, no snow) brings an ambiance to the walk. The light is muted but colors stand out. Here is a mustard covered field of yellow just outside of Pamplona. Our challenge was to crest the mountain in the background — Alto de Perdon (755 meters). Did you see the walkers in the right lower corner of the image?

Our muddy mountain climb began in Zariquiegui. I had to take a photo of the sign below. It was the first time that I had see this singular message displayed in public. I wondered whether it could be shown in Florida, probably too woke.

After passing out of the town, we proceeded up the mountain passing a row of windmills. If you have read blogs from my Primitivo trip, you will recall how often I had encountered windmills in the Cantabrian mountains. When we crested the mountain, we passed by a metal sculpture honoring pilgrims and their battles with winds at the pass. Wind and rain, constant companions of walking pilgrims.

The descent was steep and rocky. Perhaps stony describes it better – lots of the them. Towards the middle of the descent after the steepest section, grateful walkers, I included, have tossed a stone on this pile that now envelopes a Camino sign.

At the bottom, I met John from Oregon who is on his first Camino. He will be going all the way. He retired from his job of 30 years. He is 58 and wanted to experience walking alone in a non- English speaking land. I was happy (perhaps with some slight envy) for him because he will have many more walks ahead of him. Although I plan on a multi-day a year, the options for the types of walks and their durations will lessen year by year.

We entered Obanos, another medieval town with close connections to the Camino – a story of murder and repentance from centuries ago. Here are photos of the main church’s alter, the gateway to the plaza mayor, and another free library. We were only 3 km from Puente La Reina.

Finally, after 25 minutes, we reached our destination with the traditional moment of celebration.

Dinner at the hotel was simple – a mixed salad and a baked fish with a caper tasting sauce. Pretty basic in comparison to some of my other dinners. Nevertheless, I was satisfied.

I took a stroll on the Main Street to the bridge that is Puente de Reina‘s namesake. Sundown had arrived. The river was calm. The area was quiet with no cars and only a man filling large water bottles at a public fountain behind me. A meditative moment.

As I walked back to my hotel (two buildings beyond the church tower), the town lanterns came on. They are electric but before such power was available, they were torches and a townsman walked the streets with a long staff to protect walkers. No need for a patrolman today as I passed locals talking at the nearby bar. Another day experienced.

Hotel Beidan: 2.5

Nine AM seems to be time that I get started so far. Down the block, right turn, and over the Romanesque bridge for the walk out of town.

Not every moment on the Camino is idyllic. Almost immediately I pass a factory whose purpose is to grind up earth most likely for cement. Close by were two very large open pits. The truck in the photo is the size of earth movers that you see on the highway.

But right around the next hill were two mares with their foals lying on the ground. The contrast could not have been more stark.

After ups and more downs on the trail, I took a welcome break for some cafe con leche. Others had the same idea in mind. I met up with some pilgrims who shared this morning’s breakfast with me. Josh turned up soon afterwards and told me that Racquel was taking the taxi to Pamplona because she was not feeling well.

We hiked the last 8 miles to Pamplona together. We crossed a Romanesque bridge built in the 11th C when we entered Trinidad de Arre, a suburb of Pamplona. We passed an example of a Spanish free lending library. Large Camino signs guided us through the streets until we reached the Pamplona’s city gate that hugged enormous city walls as high as 30 feet. Storm this walls? I had retuned!

Within a few hours, dinner time (8:30) required a 25 minute walk to the south outside the old centro to El Merca’o which Michelin designated with Bib icon as an establishment with excellent food at good prices. How about a delicious three course meal for 34 Euros that included bottled water, the wines for each course, bread, and coffee? I added one of its award winning pintxos (representing a crab composed of a shrimp spread layered with potatoes) and a glass of vermouth from Narvarra to start. BTW – Spain has hundreds of vermouth to taste.

My first course was garlic sautéed string beans followed by fideua (paella but with angel hair pasta instead of rice – I prefer the rice version) ending with Goxua, a Navarran take on crème brûlée but with whipped cream as base. The Goxua thankfully came in a small jar. I enjoyed a citrus tinged white wine on the acidic side with my string beans and fideua, A good complement.

Dinner ended at 10:30, a reasonable time in Spain. The streets were quiet except locals hurrying home. A very light rain dotted my puffy jacket as I made my way back to my hotel.

I have received some emails asking about my boots that arrived last October after a two and a half year wait. The boots took about 250 miles to break in. A day before traveling to Spain. I gave them a light coat of bear grease. They still looked new. After three days, they lost their virginity,

Hotel Alda: 2

Dawn broke with the temperature at 30 degrees plus high winds. Roncesvalles was quiet even at 9 AM. It was Sunday and probably most the pilgrims were on the road. My hotel was just to the right (the small sliver of a wall) in the photo. Such peace on the Camino.

After passing the Camino stating the distance to Santiago (755 kms for thru walkers), out came my puffy jacket plus gloves. But they were soon shed because the pathway entered into a thick forest that proved to be an excellent windbreak.

Although some of the walk went through exposed areas like grazing land or meadows, most of today cut through different forests or stands of trees including a very rocky section near the town of Zubiri similar to the Appalachian Trail as it makes it way on the north side of the Lehigh Valley.

We passed several dairy farms and in the town of Espinal, a community ja’lai court with a spirited doubles game in progress. Given the size of the court and three walls, it is not surprising that the game didn’t catch on in the US like pickleball. I wonder if pronouncing ja’lai had something to do with it as well.

We eventually reached Zubiri and our hotel Txantxotena. I have provided some photos of the hotel so that you can calibrate what a standard hotel room en suite (bathroom in room) may be like if you book a trip with my provider, Camino Ways. I have ranked my first three hotels that I have occupied as: 1, very good to excellent (Txantxotena); 2, good (Las Posadas, Roncesvalles); and 3, adequate (Les Ramparts, St Jean). All were clean with good beds. The difference is the general ambiance of the hotel and room, room size, and internet speed. The Txantxotena was off the charts with internet download and upload speeds. Not even 5 star hotels can beat its speed.

After settling in, Raquel and Josh, a couple from Colorado, and I were off to dinner. When we entered the restaurant, there sat Raye, Holt, and Daniel. I wrote about the first two in yesterday’s blog. Daniel is from Eisenach, Germany who is between jobs. At this point in the Camino, pilgrims are settling into their paces thus creating the opportunity for people to run into one another on the trail or in restaurants/bars even though they may be staying in different accommodations and starting each day at different times.

Racquel, Josh, and I were seated and ordered our dinner. It turned out that Racquel and I love beans. Here is photo of the last spoonful of my beans that we devoured with relish (not literally). We were served ourselves from a tureen. We each indulged on about three bowls. Need that protein and fiber.

Josh and I shared a bottle of red wine that came with a bottle of zero calorie slightly sweetened soda. I was reminded of the 2021 Camino when Laird Evans and I were served similar two bottles. Back then, we asked our waiter, why two bottles after we had consumed a somewhat harsh wine. He said that we were supposed to mix the two! Luckily, our red wine yesterday was good. You have been forewarned.

So ends another day – not overly exciting but with its own beauty of hearing the wind rustle leaves, birds chirping, water skimming over stones in a stream, and cows mooing. Most importantly, meeting new people and hearing their stories. Tomorrow, leaving the Pyrenees with my return to Pamplona. But not before breakfast.

Answer (left to right): Raye, Holt, Daniel

The most challenging stage of the Camino Frances is the climb from St Jean Pied de Pere to Roncesvalles, Spain. The ascent is about 4200 feet with a long descent into Roncesvalles.

I started at 9 AM and ended close to 5 PM. The day was glorious – cloudless, Carolina blue skies with very strong winds above 2000 feet on the Route Napoleon. I met the fellow who helped me yesterday at the Pilgrim’s Office in Orisson, a way stop serving food and drinks. He said that on the previous Monday, the route was hit with rain and snow. I had already passed a sign that showed chains were required on car tires before 1 April. Whew, dodged that bullet.

The first section is very steep with some parts at 20% grade. After about two hours, St Jean was in the distance framed by the foothills.

My fellow pilgrims and I eventually reached the Croix Thibaut that marked the ascent to the Col de Bentarte (1337 meters). The wind was fierce until we went through the pass that was about 20 feet wide. We were then in a wind break passing into Navarra (province of Spain) until we reached the Col de Lepoeder (1429 meters) – the highest point of this stage. We were back in the wind during our descent to Roncesvalles.

I would estimate that about 200 pilgrims were hiking to Roncesvalles. Not as many who walk the 100km from Sarria to Santiago but certainly more than the 30 or so in my cohort on the Primitivo. When I reached Roncesvalles, a long line of pilgrims were in the welcoming offices seeking lodging. The best offerings were shared rooms with 2-3 others. If you saw the movie, the Way, the 100 bed dorm room in the main hostel was converted into the smaller rooms. The moral of the story is book ahead.

I was surprised that Americans could have formed a plurality of the pilgrims; I met five Pennsylvanians. I chatted with a dozen New Zealanders traveling together (no Aussies yet), several Chinese and South Koreans, a South African, and plenty of Europeans.

The most frequent reasons for walking the Camino were: finding direction at a turning point in their lives, and seeking a different tourist experience especially for hiking enthusiasts. One fellow, Greg, is an ER physician at retirement age. He says the ER gives him purpose in life but the stress is overwhelming. Holt, a military veteran, is pondering whether to enter the Anglican ministry. Raye, a woman named after her grandfather, is taking a few months off after completing her time with a non-profit organization to figure out her next steps.

Then, there are those who walk because “it is there.” One woman has walked the John Muir trail and has biked across the US west-east, north- south. Two sisters, one of whom knows a former teacher from Centennial School in the 1980’s, are avid hikers and wanted share in the Camino experience. Several people mentioned “The Way” as their first introduction and inspiration for coming to the Camino.

For whatever reason, hearing and sharing so many life stories reinforces that we have so much in common — our shared humanity.

It is welcome change from the news at home.

18 April

The airplane flights from Newark to Madrid and onward to Pamplona including the bus ride from Terminal 1 to Terminal 4 at the Madrid airport went smoothly. On my Newark to Madrid leg, I met a fellow from Tampa who was on his fourth Camino. He is the most committed Caminoite that I have met. He memorialized every walk with tattoos on his forearm. He will be starting in Pamplona and end in Santiago.

However, the way from the Pamplona airport to centro was a bit problematic. I had searched the web and found a detailed schedule stating buses leaving the airport every 20 minutes. Upon arrival, no busses. I was told to call a number to request a taxi. I tried the number but to no avail.

Others were in the boat. A line of 12 people had formed. Each time a taxi came, the driver would ask how many groups were waiting for taxis. He called his dispatcher and about 20 minutes later I was on my way into town.

While waiting I met Kristen who was with her father walking their third Camino. She is a web designer from Dallas; her father lives in Austin. She brought along temporary tattoo patches for people to display on their Caminos. What enthusiasm!

In April, no running of the bulls. One can safely walk the path that the bulls and the crazy runners take from the start corral to the bullring. Here are some photos of the pathway including a bust at the bullring of Hemingway who made the event famous in The Sun Also Rises.

Pamplona is more than just the bulls. Beautiful buildings and walkways abound. I took a stroll before dinner (the usual Spanish opening time of 8:30) and found the main public library, Paseo de Sarsate, and even a restaurant serving bubble tea. People were out and about on paseo.

As my custom, I searched ahead for some fine dining experiences. I chose Europa, a one star Michelin. When I mentioned the restaurant at my hotel reception, the staff commented that it was premier restaurant in the city. After enjoying my dinner, Europa is a must destination for foodies. Here are some images from dinner. Even tap water is respected in the restaurant.

Some Spaniards do stay up late. If one needs a late night bite (11:30), a Burger King is around the corner or use Door Dash. No Golden Arches in sight.

19 April

After a relaxed morning, the bus station was the next step to France. The bus was full. I recommend purchasing your ticket on line a few weeks beforehand (22 Euros). You will hate to be left behind with a 150 Euro taxi fare. Low season?

If you have taken a full sized bus in Europe, you have appreciated the driver’s skill. Our driver was excellent taking about 40 hairpin turns through the mountains. She stopped the bus for about three minutes when we entered Rocenvalles or Rocenvaux in French — the end point of Day 1. Why? Don’t know but I got a preview that tomorrow’s climb will be an arduous one – distance and elevation gain. I have prepared for this day with hill climbs with my friend Delia who became an American citizen this past Tuesday.

When we arrived in St Jean, I tapped the Google Map app and entered my hotel’s name. Voila, it was less than 30 meters away through one of the town’s gate. Checked in and was on my way to the pilgrim’s office to get my first stamp.

Others had the same idea. I waited in line for about an hour and spoke with a Dutchman who, of course, was fluent in English. My pilgrim’s passport was verified and stamped after which I searched out the post office for postcard stamps. Made it with about 10 minutes to spare before closing. Afterwards, I toured the town that included views of the Pyrenees from the Citidelle. Along the way, Rhubie’s cousin crossed my path at the Porte St Jacques.

For dinner, I chose Cafe Ttipia for its take on local cuisine. I enjoyed two “small” dishes: the cassoulet of chiporones (grilled squid) with a light garlic treatment and fois gras. Bread was eaten liberally for both dishes.

Unlike last night, I’m in bed at 9:30. Big day ahead and rest is the word of the moment.

In June 2011, my friend, Michael George, and our wives walked three miles into the Gavanie Cirque that Victor Hugo described as the “Colosseum of Nature.” One of its clefts is known as the Roland’s Breach which legend has it that Charlemagne’s knight tried to smash his sword to prevent it from falling into enemy hands. The actual battle occurred about 70 miles to the west near Roncesvalles that is on the upcoming Camino route – Stage 1.

We saw an arrow that marked the trailhead that would eventually lead to hiking over the mountain into Spain. We turned to one another and said that one day we would walk into Spain.

The time finally came last fall. We signed up to start from St Jean Pied de Pere, France to Pamplona and then to Burgos — the opening stages of the Camino Frances. Alas, I will going alone because Michael and Nancy will be moving back to Eugene, OR during the same time period as this Camino walk. I am both happy for them but disappointed that we will not make the journey together.

I’ll be flying on 17 April from Newark to Madrid followed by an hour’s flight to an overnight stay in Pamplona known for its running of the bulls. No bulls at this time. At noon the next day, I’ll catch a bus to St Jean Pied de Pere. Stage 1 will begin on 20 April; I will arrive in Burgos on 1 May.

You may have seen the movie, The Way, starring Martin Sheen. He started where I will. The climb over the Pyrenees will be more than 4000 feet to the mountain pass. Stay tuned for the first blog from Roncesvalles. Thanks for being with me in spirit on my third Camino.