The walk started at 8:15 AM and ended at 6:45 PM making it as long as some of the high mountain climbs I did in Japan. The morning started as rain but it was light. I wasn’t soaked and the large rocks on the paths were not slippery — the good news. The bad news was that mud was everywhere making Camino walkers dodge sideways to avoid our shoes getting wet. Nature was merciful today and a makeshift sign on the road out of Tineo expressed a wonderful sentiment — Here There I am by your side. I thought of Kobo Daishi from my 88 Temple walk.

The countryside was beautiful. However, photos can’t directly convey the sounds of birds, the earthy smells of farms, or the sensations of wind against one’s body. The air is fresh; cars and trucks are few. After four hours, I came upon route signs: Tineo to the left and Pola to right. Alas, I was still less than halfway to Pola.

Another 2 miles and I was ready for a cerveza. In a small hamlet, a cerveza and a chicken sandwich on a 4 inch baguette with a whole filet and lettuce was 4 euros. Imagine that in the US. Even better, was running into Gabriel from Chile. We were supposed to have walked Day 3 together from Salas but somehow misunderstood how we were to connect. We headed out together for the final half of the walk. At the end, we were glad to be a pair rather than walking solo.

Most of the way was straightforward. The signs were clear and we had stopped for what else, a cerveza, at an inn in Colinas de Arriba. When we left, we headed for Colinas de Abajo. Really.

Now for the thrilling part. Just down the road, we turned left following the Camino sign. We entered a primeval forest walking on a very muddy track. We met two women walking towards us. Odd because we encountered no one walking the Camino backwards. They were heading back to the highway because they got lost in the forest. No signs they said.

We were undecided what to do. After about a minute, we decided to plow on (literally) because surely signs must be ahead. No signs and for the next hour, we slowly climbed higher and higher. It was getting darker as the sun was heading below the crest of the mountains.

We eventually reached a T and using Google maps decided to go right or southwest. Another 30 minutes of no signs. Shortly, we broke out of the forest onto a wide path the led to the highway. Wouldn’t you know, we could make out a Camino sign in the distance.

We weren’t finished. We had a very steep downhill stretch to go. I took a photo at the beginning of the downhill and another from my hotel window looking back up at the power line structure from where we started our descent. We were glad it wasn’t raining because the downward path was rocky and it would have been very dangerous when wet. The trek down was exciting enough.

All’s well that ends well. I enjoyed another hearty meal; the first course was Asturian lentil soup while Manchester City and Real Madrid were competing in a Champions League semi- final match. Many locals were watching on a big screen behind me. I finished my dinner at halftime. Score: 1-0, Real Madrid. I needed to shower and sleep. I left. I could hear roars and groans from my room. No matter, I was down for the count. The final score that I read in the morning was 1-1.

The walk from Salas to Tineo was the easiest of the three days comparatively. The length was the shortest but the temperature went up into the mid70’s with full sun and no wind. It was still hard but as a veteran of the CP said, “Wait until tomorrow. The next few days will be the most challenging of the CP.”

Rather than dwell on the future, the walk out of Salas reacquainted me with the couple from the Canary Islands whom I met on the first day. We took a selfie before we left town — Cristina, 47, and Jamie, 32. I also photographed them while they were ahead of me. They are strong walkers.

Like Day 2 out of Grado, the first quarter of the walk was uphill, a 500 meter climb. Although the elevation map shows the rest of this leg as relatively flat, my fellow hikers can attest that the short 100 meter climbs and descents can take a lot of energy. Off the roads, the paths are very uneven and are tricky because of the long muddy ruts on the unpaved dirt roads. Below is an image of an uphill dirt path.

A few times on every walk, I miss a sign or two and end off trail. Outside of El Espin, I ended up walking on the highway with no Camino signs to be seen. I decided to turn into the next village. I found a couple and asked them where the CP was. After trying to explain several times, Luis walked me to the CP. I thanked him and went on my way. After climbing more hills, I had second thoughts about leaving the smooth highway that was closer to Tineo than the winding route of the CP. But then again, one must follow the prescribed route.

I finally started downhill into Tineo. Wouldn’t you know — there was Cristina and Jamie at a sidewalk cafe enjoying what else, cerveza cana, draft beer). I ran into more people on the CP than I had anticipated — Mick from Cincinnati, Ilya from Miami, Ms Okikawa from Tokyo, two French women from Bordeaux, a pack of five Spanish women who glided along, and two Dutch women (Wendy and Netti) whom I met at the sidewalk cafe. The less traveled route?

About 200 meters downhill was my hotel, the Palacio de Meras. My room was spacious and the towels were some of the fluffiest I had ever experienced. Dinner was superb. The salad was ample and so fresh; the fish was firm and the sauce had the right touch of garlic (note the fish knife); and the waiter poured me a glass of Albariño and the local Asturian white. What more can one ask to end the day.

I did choose to walk what most publications state to be the most difficult of the Camino routes. So far, from my perspective, the CP has lived up to its reputation. Yesterday was a tough 20 miles with more than half in the rain. Marta said that today would be easy in comparison. Hum.

After saying goodbye to Matteo, Marta dropped me off at the starting point to resume the CP at the end of Grado. “There’s the Camino,” she said, “Follow the sign to the right.” That started a climb of more than 350 meters over 5 km distance with several descents. I was glad to have practiced on the hill behind St. Luke’s. At the top of the climb, my heart rate was 130 bpm. Thank you Delia for sharing the practice climbs. They certainly helped here.

After toping the first climb, the descent was steep. During these two days, the steep descents jammed my toes against the front and sides of the toe box. I did not expect this. I had to use a few pads on my toes to reduce the chances of forming blisters. Otherwise, my usual foot treatment of applying Foot Glide has worked fine. I included an image of a downhill path. That same hill is behind the highway to the far right hand side of the second photo with Grado 5 km beyond it.

While resting about halfway through this stage (see Doriga sign), I met Gabriel from Santiago, Chile. He had recently quit his job working for a Japanese company. He said that he was always working and the stress had affected his health. He chose the CP in order to be alone — well, almost alone before he started his new job. He is 64 years old.

By mile 15, we were dragging. Where was Salas? I kept thinking about a cold cerveza at the end of the walk. Our wish was granted after a “long” hour and a half later just as we passed a funky sign pointing the way. We were both surprised that we were in the same hotel that is built into ramparts of the town. The hotel has been a home of the Valdes Salas family whose most famous ancestor was the founder of the University of Oviedo and Inquisitor General of Spain. What a twist of fate to have me as a guest. I was wondering what kind of university experience was had in the 17th Century given the founder’s position. Tenure?

I ended my day with the pilgrim’s menu at El Campo Bar near the hotel. The hotel dining room was closed; it was Sunday. My first course was chicken soup. I ate all of it. Just what the doctor ordered for my ailing toes.

My walks have taught me to accept whatever comes along. Weather is what Mother Natures gives. So, Day 1 began at 9:15 AM with me in full gear just like Day 1 last year on the Camino Portuguese.

Luckily, I had purchased a guidebook of this Camino that included a map of the pathway through the city until I could find the first signpost near the main entrance of the train station. From there, it was spotting the Camino shells and yellow arrows.

After walking 4 miles in heavy rain, I came upon a group of walkers huddled under the roof of Chapel Carmen. Mucho gustos we’re shared all around. The couple to my right as you look at the photo were from the Canary Islands. I ran into them several times afterwards as we passed one another on the route. The rest were locals out for a day’s walk in the rain! We stamped our credentials as evidence that we were progressing along. Even in the rain, smiles abounded.

By 2 PM, the clouds had parted and the sun came out full of heat. Here is an image of a valley with rolling hills in the background. I was assured later that the mountains will be coming. Yet, this leg had 2000 feet of ascent and 2500 feet of descent. Hills? They too can tax your feet and hips.

Even with water fortified with electrolytes, my body was craving food and some Spanish cerveza after 16 miles. I was teased along the route by signs advertising an inn/restaurant every kilometer or so. The last sign pointed right with 50 meters to go. It was more like 200 meters — each meter felt significant at this point in the day.

At the Villa Palatine, I asked for fabada — remember the Asturian bean stew? No go on Saturday. The substitute was soup of garbanzo beans and langoustines. Think of a slightly thinner lobster bisque with beans. Delicious. Two large beers in frosted mugs helped my mood too.

A man at the next table, Senor Chama, gave me a thumbs up for loving his beloved Asturian cuisine. He beckoned me over to his table and poured me some sider the Asturian way. Yes, they (most often waiters and waitresses) really pour sider this way for locals and tourists alike. I think that the technique enhances the liquid’s effervescence.

My feet were sore now after reaching the 20 mile mark. I entered Grado and made the call to the Rural Palacio Fernandez where I was staying. It is 8 km outside of town. Marta and her daughter picked me up. I was the only guest for the night; tourist season hasn’t started yet. Here is a view of my room and from my room.

My dinner was simple but completely farm to table except for the tomatoes. Even the beer was local to this valley. I devoured the salad and ate half of the tortilla — the other half will be breakfast tomorrow. I asked about the cheese that topped the salad because its color was rusty red. Marta said that the cheese from her valley was made with paprika. Each valley has its distinctively styled cheese. I was not surprised given the number of hills that I had traversed. I wondered what Alfonso II thought as his entourage progressed along the rocky trails that I had walked. Off to bed with cow bells ringing from a distance.

Oviedo became the capital of Asturias in the 9th Century under King Alfonso II who is said to have made the first pilgrimage to Santiago — hence, the designation of the Oviedo to Santiago route as the Camino Primitivo (CP) — the Original Way. It is not the longest route but it is considered the most challenging because of the number of continuous days ascending and descending the mountains of Asturias and eastern Galacia. A plaque near the Cathedral marks the starting point of the CP. I also provided a map diagramming the generally accepted daily stopping points of the CP. Going east to west (right to left on the map), I will be walking more than 220 miles — mostly mountains until the city of Lugo in Galacia.

King Alfonso II also found several pre-Romanesque churches around Oviedo. These churches are designated UNESCO World Heritage sites. I visited three of them – Naranco, Lillo, and Saint Julian. They are simple in design and much of their frescoes no longer exist. Nevertheless, they still stand and are among the oldest surviving churches in Christendom.

Although Oviedo is a bustling modern city, it is steeped in its religious history. The Cross of the Angles is the central symbol in the city’s coat of arms and is the distinctive feature of its flag. Even the tour guides around the cathedral wear lapel pins of that cross.

Not to be neglected, I sampled the local artisanal cerveza. Here is my favorite tasted at Conrad’s Bar. Here’s to you Laird as I follow our tradition of having a beer at the end of a day’s walk.

Asturianos are quite proud of their cuisine. I have included images of three dishes that I enjoyed. Sharon will have no difficulty choosing the Fobada (Asturian Stewed Beans) as my number one choice. I love beans! But the Parrochas (Small Fried Sardines) and the Chipirones (Grilled Squid) were delicious as served at the Gato Negro. For fun, find the black cat in the bar scene.

My relaxed time in Oviedo ends tomorrow. The mountains await.