We started out at 8 AM, still dark and cold (48 F) with a statue pointing the way south. Although the ascents were mostly gentle, we still recorded almost 2,000 feet of elevation gain.
What struck us was the topography of area through which the trail went. We were in open fields for a mile or two then in dense forest. We were in direct sunlight for 30 minutes and then in shade. Thank goodness for the shade. We certainly felt the sun’s power as the morning approached noon.
Monique commented that it was quite warm for mid-September. Coupled with low rainfall, the fields had browned. I included an image of a house in the middle of a dry field – a perfect setting for filming the new Little House On The Prairie.
In between, we took two breaks. The first included coffee for Monique and of course beer for me. We shared a pear tart. The cost will break your heart – 5.50 € or $6.30. At the other establishment, a coffee and beer where it sold local products such as shiitake chips and crisps (probably appealing to both an American and UK customers). Check out the flavors: Original, Truffle, Garlic, and Wasabi. Monique told me that wasabi is gaining a large loyal following in Europe. Shiitake. I should have checked the nutritional table. The healthy alternative to my favorite potato chip. I say potato and you say shiitake. Does have quite the same flow.
We eventually reached our hotel at 5:30. We were on the road for 9.5 hours. I thought that I would notched a 20 miler. Alas. But several future several stages have the potential of being 20 milers.
Soon, it was dinner. We shared a table of eight — four French, two English (who will be going the distance to St Jean Pied du Port using Camino Ways, my travel planner for this trip), one Swiss (Monique), and one American (moi). After a quick discussion of American politics, we moved to a wide range of topics.
Dinner was served family style with an opening salad, roasted chicken thigh and drumstick with potatoes and beans that ended with a thick chocolate pudding. Our wines were from the region – Puy de Dome. Very satisfying. I was not thinking clearly. I did not take a photo of our table. C’est dommage.
Another quiet night in the French countryside.
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