Camino Podiensis (Le Puy-en-Velay to St Jean Pied-du-Port) Prologue (9 September)

My five previous Camino walks have been exclusively in Spain except for the one that started at St Jean Pied-du-Port, the gateway over the Pyrenees to Pamplona and onto Burgos. It is not surprising that everyone associates the Camino with Spain.

But pilgrims started from villages and cities throughout Europe on their Caminos that eventually crossed into Spain along some well traveled routes. The Caminos Frances is the best known with the starting point at St Jean Pied-du-Port. This village will now be the end point of this Camino – the well marked Camino Podiensis (CP), the GR65 — that traverses the Massif Central (an area of extinct volcanoes) through the Dordogne (the land that produces Roquefort cheese and Armagnac) and ends in the French Basque area at the foothills of the Pyrenees. The guidebooks say 450 miles. I have 32 days based upon the dwellings that have been reserved.

The first task is getting to the start point — Le Puy. Perhaps you have eaten its famous green lentils. All went smoothly from Sharon driving me to the Newark Airport bus and the Air Canada flights to Montreal and Lyon. I chose these flights because they were the least expensive when I booked in early March. Something called the Iran war sent prices quickly up.

A serendipitous benefit happened by arriving in Lyon. The Schengen zone has started to phase in a new scanner/photo turnstile entry system while eliminating the old fashioned face to face system with immigration officers stamping passports with entry visas. Alas, no more bragging rights on how many stamps you have in a passport — at least, Schengen zone ones.

Reports abounded about long waits of up to two hours especially at major hub airports like Frankfurt, Paris, and Amsterdam. But today, I walked without stopping to a passport checkpoint and had my passport stamped — perhaps my last of the Schengen zone.

Instead of taking hours to get to Lyon central station, I was ahead by four hours. So, here I am starting to write this prologue and people watching before boarding my train to Le Puy where my friend, Monique Karrer, will meet me.

I first met Monique on my 88 Temple walk in Japan. We later met in Orvieto, Italy to walk the final leg of the Via Fracigena to Roma. I had walked from Firenze to Orvieto with my friend, Rich Gorton. Two years ago, Monique guided me on trails around her hometown of Winterthur and the Zurich canton including Rheinfalls. She will walk from Le Puy to Conques (10 days) — her third time. I’ll go on from there.

The Le Puy train station was crowded with Camino walkers who spread out through the town. The cathedral, the official start point of this Camino, was built in the 11-13 Centuries during the same period as Notre Dame Paris though of different architectural styles. It occupies a commanding site near the top of a hill. Worshipers can enter through the floor before the main alter. Dramatic as is the church with its glass cross over the altar and Moorish arches in the ceiling recalling those of the mezquita in Cordoba. St James, St Jacques in French, has his place near the alter.

Arriving Pilgrims
Approaching Le Puy Cathedral
Entryway
Main Altar
Moorish Arches
St Jacques

After our visit, dinner at the 7 Instant restaurant in the old town near our hotel. Monique had local trout that was similar to Arctic Char; I had the last portion of steak tartare prepared at the table. The steak tartare was classic with cut pieces of meat rather than being ground. The wines were delicious and only 5 € per 6 oz pour. We ended with desserts, Pavlova for Monique and a cerise (cherry ice cream) enclosed in a thin layer of colored white chocolate. To be in France.

Local Trout
Steak Tartare
Being Prepared
Final Presentation
The Pavlova
Cerise On The Plate
Brouilly
Local Cotes d’Avergne

Bonne Nuit. Our Camino begins tomorrow.