Miriam and I breakfasted together before she was off to beat the heat. You can tell she was prepared. A funny thought came to my mind. I wonder how steps would she take to cover today’s hike. I thought of seeing Nick and Jeff’s heels as they disappeared into the distance. Height certainly has its advantages.
I also wanted to give a shout out to Cédric, the concierge at our hotel. He was most helpful. In addition, I think that he is a frustrated comedian. He’s been to the US a few times, the cites and our national parks in the West. Thank you again Cédric.
Because this stage was a short one, I left at 9AM and leisurely walked through the town.
In a crack in a wall, I spotted a pink rose which reminded me of Edith Piaf’s signature song, La Vie En Rose. Such beautiful words to a melodious French song. To you Sharon, my rose.
In the town square is a plaque commemorating the eight fighters who lost their lives during the ambush of German soldiers in April 1944 who were under the impression that the mayor called for their help. The “mayor” was the Resistance leader for the province of Lot.
The River Lot meanders throughout this region. We first encountered it on Day 7 when we crossed the bridge into St-Côme-d’Olt, one of designated beautiful villages of France and on several other days. We will last see her on Day 17 when we leave Cahors.
The terrain in the province of Lot is very hilly and forested with patches of field here and there. Galliac with its church tower is seen about 1.5 away. The GR-65 took me on a circuitous route so that I could view the church up close.
On the bottom right, you will observe the stone sign with the white and red blaze. What makes this sign unusual is that it notes — Chemin de Compestelle rather than Chemin de St Jacques. Is the distinction important? Probably not but I thought the difference may signal a change from the more local French naming of the route to a term more all encompassing as we get closer to Spain.
As I neared the village of St-Jean-de-Lauer, I almost passed a refreshment stand that was pictured on page 123 of the Cicerone Guide, 2024. The place was funky with two gracious hippy-like hosts. All to the good. I liked the idea of naming the Place de L’Amitie. — Place of Friendship.
After taking a detour for a salad at lunch, I came upon the sign marking the entry into the village of St Jean de Laur. Take special note of the sign with the moon and owl. With the no lights policy between midnight and six, we had the opportunity to see the stars as they should be seen.
Upon reaching my Chambres d’Hôtes La Hulette, the aroma of cantaloupes filled the reception area. They were beautiful. I was hoping that they would be served at dinner. They were as part of the first course with a dark coarsely minced pâté. Our main was local sausage with potatoes, not Aligot. We ended with a tiramisu like dessert. All served around one table, five hungry hikers. Satisfied!
In your wildest dreams, you could not work out how we came to be at this table. Robert, Phil, and Lisa are Americans who at nine met at a French elementary school in Paris. Robert and Phil have kept in touch throughout their lives. Lisa reconnected with Robert and now Phil after returning to Paris for a funeral. Odile is married to Robert.
Robert and Odile live in Paris; Lisa in Victoria, Canada; Phil in Chicago where he has been for 45 years.
I first saw them on the trail passing by them. At St Jean de Laur, they were having lunch when I sat at another doing so likewise. The conversation was to my ear a mixture of fluent French and English with American accents except for Oldie’s. I was going to say something then but did not want to disturb their animated exchanges. They walk together periodically with future Caminos and GR walks in mind.
As the invisible hand of the Chemin would have it, we were at this table. An amazingly sweet story. I am glad to have heard it.
Back to my room for the night. I added these photos because this room was the best so far. All rooms have been clean so far. Some modern and updated; some a bit to more than a bit worn. All have afforded a good night’s sleep. This room is also the first where I did not hear church bells (because no churches are nearby) begin around (plus or minus a few minutes) seven and on the hour, end at ten. In this age, what church has bell ringers throughout the night?
