I knew that I had a hard walk ahead of me — 20 miles with a predicted temperature of 90F. I carried 3 liters of water. The backpack was heavy at the start and light at the end.
Breakfast at the Brit fortified me for the trip. This buffet was the most extensive of the trip. Different kinds of yogurt, fruits, meats, cheese, cereal, and of course, chocolate croissants. The scrambled eggs were the best mass produced ones for a buffet. With my café au lait boosted with a double espresso. I was ready for the road.
Time to go: 7:30. The first order of business is to cross the Lot River for the last time. The Pont Valentré is on the western side of the city. Pretty imposing. It once was the main bridge for the city. Only pedestrians cross it now.
As you look at the photo of the Lot River, note the hill on the right. My fellow pilgrims and I had to climb up the face of that hill. Straight up no handrails with unreliable stairs. Where’s risk management personnel when you need them? Most of the time I walked to the side of the stairs. I included a photo of Cahors in the valley.
The first 5 miles were walked in cool temperatures. As I descended a hill, a cross appeared towards the bottom. Another reminder that we are walking a pilgrimage path.
I encountered about 20 pilgrims during this part of the hike. Another 10 miles, I was alone — no one in front or back. Like Conques, Cahors siphoned off many fellow hikers.
The guidebook stated that we will seeing fields of sunflowers during this part of the Chemin. We clearly missed the season. The fields that I saw were already cut and plowed over or the sunflowers were completely dried out. Too bad.
Eventually, I reached Montcuq and now on the back half in time and distance of the Chemin. The village survived many battles over the centuries starting with Simon de Monfort during the Albigensian Crusade, the Hundred Years War, and the Calvinists in the Wars of Religion. Pink umbrellas adorned the Main Street — the village’s reminder of Breast Cancer awareness month. I plan on touring the village before starting tomorrow’s walk.
Up a side street was my B&B — Le Cou Cou and Emma, the host, who provided me lemonade when I entered. Was I beat. The building was beautifully renovated. I’ll include more pictures of the living area in tomorrow’s blog. My room was nicely decorated. My room faced the back. I could hear the soothing trickle of the Le Cou Cou’s fountain from the patio while I cooled down from the hike.
I opted to dine early because I knew I could not stay awake for long. Down the hill was a French-Irish bistro. I wanted a simple and lighter dinner. The restaurant across the street offered cassoulet. I love love cassoulet but it is too heavy and better for cooler days and nights. It would be like eating a Carnegie Deli pastrami sandwich for lunch in the middle of a hot day. There is a time for everything.
So, I was with my pint of Guinness, a tomato salad with anchovies (the waitress asked me if I wanted them). Bien sûr. My pâté came in a jar. A first but it was good. I have wondered if pâté in a jar was good. Nothing remained.
Lights out at 9:30.
