Today was a leisurely one because I had only 12 miles ahead of me, mostly flat. The guidebook was true to its word. Twelve miles and flat until the last half mile when the climb was 400 feet. The added benefit was the shade for nine miles. Stately sycamore trees lined the Canal from Moissac until I left the canal to reach Auvillar, my destination.
The canal coursed through Moissac with homes fronting its banks. Quickly, trees shadowed the canal. The scenes reminded me of Matisse’s painting of Canal du Midi. How delightful it was to walk unimpeded by cars. Occasionally, a bike buzzed by — a minor nuisance.
Most people are familiar with the Canal du Midi which is a World Heritage treasure. The Canal Garonne-Tarn should receive such recognition because during the 19th Century, boats could travel from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean Sea equal to that of the Canal du Midi.
My good fortune was the shade along the canal and the bliss of being in the country. It ended when I left the canal to follow the Chemin into the town of Pommevic. There it was — the Arches — the first time that I had seen the logo since being in France. Then, a more open WC that within five minutes gave way to seeing cooling towers of a nuclear power plant looming in the distance. The saving grace was Chapelle Ste Catherine du Port with its illuminated altar.
Back in a the sun with slightly cooler afternoon temperatures of 85F, I saw my final destination ahead. Only 20 feet of elevation gain up to that point gave way to the realization of one last climb.
I rewarded myself with a celebratory beer on the veranda of the village’s main hotel, Hotel de la Tour named for the bell tower next to it. I am back here now just before 7PM. I wanted to dine as early as possible because I have more than a half mile walk back to my B&B. There are no lights on the streets.
I decided to try the Menu du Marché. Ouef Parfait as entrée, the cabillaud (Chilean Sea Bass) as the plat, and fromage.
Early bedtime – 32km or 20 miles, we think, tomorrow.
