Today was the last of three short days before starting a stretch of five consecutive long days. I have been spoiled with starting at 9AM or later and not be pressed in completing the stage.
Yesterday, I showed an example of Eauze’s houses along one of its randomly laid out streets. Before leaving the center, here is one of several timbered buildings built in 16th Century. It is on the main square opposite the cathedral.
I had to remind myself that we are past the summer growing season. My guidebook emphasized the corn growing in this area. Yes, corn is grown here but it had already been harvested. Although I have been to Iowa with Sharon countless times, I had never seen a harvested field up close and personal. Not a pretty scene with shorn stalks and cobs strewn about. This is what makes walking special. You aren’t whizzing by and seeing the environment from afar.
The upshot of the discussion is that much of any walk is a sample of daily life. Sometimes the scenery and interactions are unusual whereas most often, they are ordinary. Even in the ordinary, the beauty of the moment presents itself.
In Manciet, I came across a bull fighting ring. According to the guide, athletic cows are in the ring rather than bulls. No animals are hurt; none are killed. The goal is show the grace of movement when humans confront animals. Seems like a civilized activity. Too bad the season begins in a few weeks.
In the same town, I came across the first pedestrian bridge on this Chemin. Monique and I had used population to classify various clusters of buildings as hamlets (fewer than 100 people), villages (no more than 500 people), towns (5,000 to 10,000) and cities (more than 10,000).
After walking through so many places and after crossing the bridge, I came up with a different scheme. Hamlet — about one car per hour; village — cars driving slowly or complying with the speed limit; town — cars driving fast in an area with no traffic signals; cities — places where cars drive slowly because there are lots of traffic lights. What’ya think?
See what walking alone occupies the mind!
Back out in the country, one of the landmarks of the stage is the Église-Hopital Ste Christie which was once a major way station for pilgrims on the Chemin.
Further down the road was an art project that posted portraits of past pilgrims. Periodically, Chemin sponsored art depicted various aspects of the Chemin. Public art is vibrant throughout France and on the Chemin.
The town sign as I entered Nogaro took me aback — the town under surveillance? One of my photography projects is to take images relating to surveillance. Many cities in Europe have surveillance cameras. But this sign was a first for me in advising locals and tourists that they (we) were being watched.
My hotel was just down road from the town limits sign. Here was the sign on the hotel’s front door. I went in. I found my name on the board next to the reception counter with a key under it. Picked up my suitcase and went to my room #4. Imagine that in the US. Unless a big hotel, many of the small hotels and B&Bs had signs saying that no one was on duty until 2:30PM or so. When in France, go with the flow. I learned quickly to time my arrivals no earlier than 2:30.
The three course dinner menu was very good. Green salad with tuna, roasted pork and potatoes, and crème fraîche with strawberry syrup. I ended in an Armagnac.
Time for bed. Breakfast starts at 7AM. Good because I have 18-20 miles ahead tomorrow. I want to be on the road by 8AM. This stage is the first of five 18+ plus mile stages in a row. We are starting the home stretch.
