My guidebook ppstated that this stage was 11km or just under 7 miles. As usual, an underestimate. I ended up walking 10 miles. Not as much a rest day as I expected. But thank goodness, not another 20 miler.
These walks always unearth surprises. I wondered how appealing it could be to eat “Dangerous Tacos.” Perhaps the image and name were supposed to appeal to the male ego.
It reminded me of the hamburger joint I passed in Logroño, Spain two years ago during a Camino. The sign overhead said “Bad Food.” No one was in the restaurant. Perhaps these owners watched too much American TV.
Of more interest was the Beaux Arts building that housed the post office. Above the lentel, the words telegraf and telephone were written under postes. Those were days in the early 20th century when you went to a central building to use these communication devices. The telegraph? How times have changed.
As I made my final turn to leave Saint Palais, a modern version of the pilgrim stood in front of a church built centuries ago. Cultures do adapt to changing times.
One of featured stops of this stage is Christian Lapie’s wooden sculpture atop Mount Saint-Saveur. I met four women when I arrived as they were departing on the descent. I had the area all to myself. A crude bench, one of the few over the past 80 miles, was placed where I took the photo. I sat there for 30 minutes or so taking in the sculpture, and the scene before me. The figures and I contemplated countless miles of nature’s beauty. How privileged was I to savor this moment.
Before I left, I saw an interesting cloud formation to my left. Was that a flying saucer or the Starship Enterprise?
Down I went past a mural that marked the junction where three main French Chemin routes meet: Tours, Vézeley, and Le Puy. Then up again where I got a perspective of Saint-Saveur. That mount stood out on its own from the flat areas surrounding it. Reflecting on the entire journey to this point, other than day 19 walking the Garonne-Tarn Canal after leaving Moissac, I had rarely walked on flat ground.
I was nearing my destination when I took this photo of the stones (that some pilgrims leave) on this cross. The lighting and clouds gave this photo gravitas. I was clearly on The Way.
Thankfully, I made it to the hotel in reasonably good shape. When I sat down for dinner, a French couple from Nantes (city at the mouth of the Loire) were at the next table. I saw them last night during dinner and at breakfast this morning. We talked about wine and food, of course. He was very animated about Nantes and the Loire wines. One of his favorite white among many was Chablis. I agreed that Chablis was superb. He was surprised at the prices we pay for French wines. Fees for agents, transportation, and now higher tariffs. “Ah, oui” he said.
He and his wife take long distance hikes several times a year — few number of days and shorter distances per day. Tomorrow, they will stop 5km from SJPP. Why? To savor those last few kilometers into SJPP. Another lesson.
Dinner was ok. A mixed green salad with champignons on the side, a BBQ quarter chicken with roasted potatoes (really good), and cheesecake. Although Thierry does not prefer Jurançon wines, I like the flavor and texture of the sec. Jurançon is known for its sweet wines. The grapes that are not thought capable of reaching the “noble rot,” are picked earlier for a dry wine. This process reminded me of the Bordeaux Sauternes wineries who use some of their grapes for dry wines. Chateau d’Yquem is an example with its “Y” wine.
Early to bed tonight stretching to prepare myself for the final day of arriving in SJPP.
