Gray clouds in the sky. 30% chance of rain as we left St-Chély-d’Aubrac. The coat of arms of the village was a combination of its religious history — loyalty to the Catholic bishop and the Camino — and its textile industry, bobbins for weaving adjacent to the mitre.
Immediately after crossing the pilgrim’s bridge, we ascended up a steep hill affording a view of the village and its cemetery. From this point to St-Côme-d’Olt, the path that we are taking is part of the UNESCO World Heritage recognition of the Camino because it follows the original path. Other sections of the GR-65 have changed the original route to help current day pilgrims avoid traffic or to experience scenic viewpoints.
We went through forests, and fields with trees including the chestnut with its pods maturing. The 30% chance of rain turned into a reality at about 10:15 AM as we descended into the Lot River Valley. You can see Monique in the distance with her cerise colored umbrella. She reported receiving several compliments for her color coordinated rain gear.
As we entered St-Côme-d’Olt, we met up with Stefan from Montreal. Stefan, his sister, and brother-in-law will be hiking to St Jean PP and then over the Pyrenees. Expect more appearances in future blogs. After the selfie, Stefan took off like a TGV and was quickly out of sight. He was carrying 30 pounds in his backpack. We later learned that he is in late 50’s and will be retiring in a year. To be so young.
The rain stayed with us until 1 PM when we had lunch in St-Côme-d’Olt designated as one of the most beautiful villages in France. We agree — a well kept up village with original structures from the 12th century.
Our lunch was in the center of the village at a brasserie with a wide awning that allowed us to dine outside. Monique is another anchovy pizza fan! Look at those little fishies. Pizza came without cheese. The French version uses emmenthaler not mozzarella. Not the correct flavor according to Monique.
I ordered a bowl (bol in French) of guacamole pronounced like whack a mole in French – no o-lay at the end. Did I get a bowl (of chips)! The guacamole was a superb rendition.
After lunch, we toured the walled old town and its church before leaving on the bridge crossing the Lot.
After we crossed the bridge, we sauntered on a pathway along the river. Then, the GR-65 took a path up a mountain where we had the view below of the Lot River valley. We agreed that the view was spectacular. But ….. surely the pilgrims would have taken the easier route on the valley floor. What was diagramed in the guidebook as a stage with a descending slope had us working pretty hard to get to Espalion, our final destination.
We finally arrived in Espalion at 5:15 PM. We had been on the road for nine hours including our lunch break. It was a long day.
Dinner was served at 7 PM. An opening of melon, ham, and salad verte. The main was to be sausage and Aligot. Not again? We pleaded with the hostess to serve us an alternative. How about canard and pasta. Pasta, you wonder? The kitchen only serves guests of the hotel and plans one menu for all. Thus, no veggies because none were in the kitchen. But pasta was. We were all smiles.
As a note, we really like the rosé from the Languedoc of which the Lot is part. Six € for a half liter.
88 Photos 