Morning Fog. Bracing. No rain forecasted – high of 73F. All accurate for the entire day.
We picked up the Chemin route two blocks away at the new Espalion bridge spanning the River Lot. Facing south, the original bridge was open but no vehicular traffic. The towns along this route have retained many of their old structures. These towns were honored with World Heritage designation.
The path out of town was well tended. A pheasant led us for about 400 meters and then flew on its merry way. A first for everything.
We were soon in farmland. I took a photo of French field corn. Notice the gaps between the stalks. In Iowa fields, you would encounter a phalanx of stalks with no daylight between the stalks. You probably could walk through the French field — not in Iowa.
We shortly started our climb up the mountain. The path very steep and slippery. We both were thankful that this climb was at the start of day. Tired legs would have made this climb more challenging. We couldn’t even think about what it would have been like in rain or coming downhill.
Halfway up, I took this photo of fog enveloping the trees and field.
A paved road appeared when we reached high ground. We walked along the ridge. At a sculpture honoring the settlers of this region, a beautiful panorama presented itself. Look closely for the small tip behind the first mountain on the right. The castle above Espalion sits on top of the tip. That castle overlooks our start point for today. Note the hovering fog over the valley in the far distance.
Moving briskly, we came upon the hamlet of Verrièrs. Every building seemed built for a movie set. I entered the chapel on the right side of the image. You can tell that the chapel had settled over the centuries. The hamlet and towns are clearly part of the World Heritage.
Our next stop was Estaing, the ancestral home of Valéry Giscard d’Estaing, once President of France. Quite a castle in the middle of the village.
We stopped for lunch at a restaurant at the far end of the bridge. Monique had French toast (yes, that’s what it is called) and a double espresso for the road ahead. I really liked the St Thomas Abbey beer on tap and the rare burger. We had miles to go and I only had a modest breakfast. Those calories burn quickly on long and steep climbs.
After a lovely stroll along the Lot, the trail becomes serious with long and sometimes steep climbs. After an hour and a half, we were in need of a WC. Voilà, one just 500 meters said the sign. As we approached what clearly looked like the WC, a sheep dog was laying flat out on the ground next to the WC. We thought that the dog belonged to someone using the WC. We knocked on the slightly ajar door. No one inside. Not waiting, I went first.
A sign on the WC had a photo of the dog named Garou. He had completed his work as a herder and was retired. The sign stated that passersby should not be afraid of Garou. He comes to this spot on his own to give comfort and receive pets. At the end of the day, he walks home alone.
Well……I could not resist. Garou and I had a love fest. He didn’t move but readily accepted the pets and tickles to his nose and chin. I took a selfie with him. (My friends know that I never take a selfie but an exception can be made.) What a soulful dog.
Refreshed, we pushed on. At the split in the road leading to the village of Fonteilles and the Chemin path, was a memorial to Pépé Catusse who sat on the spot greeting and talking with pilgrims as they walked by. He passed in 2008.
I had seen wrapped bales of hay before but not so many that were not stacked. While touring in Norway in 2000, Sharon and I had once came upon bales wrapped in white plastic with a red “X” marked on the top. I named those — hot crossed buns. These looked like checker pieces.
Towards the end, we walked through a grove of very tall pines. These were really tall and straight. They reminded me of the British Royal Navy using North American pine trees for their masts. I wondered whether the Admiralty ever asked the French about pine trees like these especially during the 17th – 19th centuries.
We pressed on in the final miles to reach Golinhac, Camp Bellevue. When I first received the itinerary from Camino Ways that we were staying at a “camp,” my head moved right to left and I mouthed — No Way. Ron never camps. But in Golinhac, the alternative is the dormitory Gites — REALLY NO WAY!
Also of note, read the entire screen below. Donkeys allowed. Before modern transport of baggage (La Malle Postale), donkeys were used. There you have it
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Jeff, Nick, Monique, and I were assigned chalets. As I wrote, no camping for this boy.
They were spacious and adequate but with no insulation or heat. It got down to 46 last night. My hands were cold.
Our dinner was in the camp HQ. Believe it or not, the lasagna was very good. Since Monique smiled and finished her serving, the chef used mozzarella, not emmentaler.
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